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Gold built Helena. In 1864 four prospectors struck pay dirt in a gulch they called Last Chance, and within two decades the camp had become one of the richest towns per capita in the country. That fortune still shows in the stone mansions of the west side, the copper-domed Montana State Capitol and the twin spires of the Cathedral of St. Helena.
Today Helena is Montana's capital, a relaxed city of mountain views where the old gold gulch is a pedestrian street of shops and cafes. Reeder's Alley preserves early miners' housing, the Original Governor's Mansion is open for tours, and the Archie Bray Foundation draws ceramic artists from around the world to an old brickyard on the edge of town.
Trails climb straight from downtown onto Mount Helena. North of the city, boats cruise the Missouri River through the Gates of the Mountains, the canyon Lewis and Clark named in 1805, while Canyon Ferry Lake to the east draws anglers and sailors.
Completed in 1902 and topped with a copper dome, the Capitol is filled with murals and paintings, including Charles M. Russell's huge canvas of Lewis and Clark meeting the Salish at Ross' Hole in the House chamber. Free guided tours run on a regular schedule, and the lawns frame views of Mount Helena.
Modeled on the Votivkirche in Vienna, this Gothic Revival cathedral was built between 1908 and 1914, and its twin spires dominate the Helena skyline. Inside, look up at the vaulted ceiling and dozens of stained glass windows made in Munich. Visitors are welcome outside of services, and the steps offer a fine view of town.
The gulch where gold was found in 1864 is now Helena's main downtown street, with a pedestrian mall lined by ornate stone and brick buildings from the mining boom. Browse bookstores, galleries and cafes, and look for the bronze sculptures and historical plaques along the way. Evening strolls are especially pleasant in summer.
A narrow lane of small brick and stone dwellings built in the 1870s and 1880s by mason Louis Reeder to house miners and laborers. Restored buildings now hold a restaurant and small shops, and the nearby Pioneer Cabin is one of the oldest homes in Helena. It is also a convenient starting point for Mount Helena trails.
Built in 1888 for entrepreneur William Chessman, this red brick Queen Anne mansion served as the home of Montana's governors from 1913 to 1959. Guided tours by the Montana Historical Society show its period rooms, woodwork and stories of the families who lived there. Tours run on set days, so check times in advance.
Facing the Capitol, the state history museum covers Montana from its earliest peoples through the fur trade, mining, homesteading and modern times. A highlight is its collection of paintings and sculptures by cowboy artist Charles M. Russell. Allow at least two hours and check for special exhibitions and talks.
Set near the downtown walking mall, the Holter shows changing exhibitions of contemporary art with a strong focus on Montana and the wider West, from painting and sculpture to photography and crafts. Its shop sells work by regional artists, and classes and family days run throughout the year. Check the website for current shows.
On the site of an old brickyard west of town, this renowned ceramic arts center hosts resident artists from around the world. Wander the grounds among beehive kilns, crumbling brick ruins and whimsical clay sculptures, then visit the gallery and shop. The grounds are free to explore, and a self-guided tour map is available.
Rising right behind downtown, this large city park has a network of trails climbing through limestone outcrops and ponderosa pine to the summit of Mount Helena. The top offers sweeping views over the city and the valley. Most loops take two to three hours; bring water and start early on hot days.
North of Helena, the Missouri River slips between towering limestone cliffs that Meriwether Lewis named the Gates of the Mountains in 1805. Narrated boat tours run in summer, passing bighorn sheep, osprey nests and ancient pictographs, with a stop at a picnic area and trailheads. Reserve tickets on summer weekends.
North of the city, a long ridge resembling a reclining figure, known as the Sleeping Giant, forms one of Helena's best-known landmarks. The surrounding wild country near the Missouri River offers rugged hiking and wildlife viewing. Even from town or Mount Helena, look north to pick out its head and folded arms.
Formed by Canyon Ferry Dam on the Missouri River, this long reservoir east of Helena draws boaters, sailors, campers and anglers chasing trout and walleye. Shoreline campgrounds and marinas dot its banks, and the views of the Big Belt Mountains are wide open. Afternoon winds can be strong, so small craft should head out early.
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