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Waterton Lakes National Park occupies the southwest corner of Alberta, where the prairie runs straight into the Rocky Mountains with almost no foothills in between. It adjoins Glacier National Park in Montana, and the two together form the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, a World Heritage Site. Strong winds, deep lakes and an unusual mix of prairie and alpine plants give it a character distinct from the larger Rocky Mountain parks.
The small townsite on Upper Waterton Lake holds most services, and the Prince of Wales Hotel looks down on it from a bluff. The Waterton Shoreline Cruise follows the lake south across the international border, and a boat also reaches the trailhead for the Crypt Lake Trail, a demanding hike that involves a ladder and a short tunnel. Closer to town, Bear's Hump is a short, steep climb with a view over the lakes, and the trail to Bertha Falls and Bertha Lake starts nearby. Two scenic roads lead inland: one to Cameron Lake beneath the continental divide, the other to the red and green rock of Red Rock Canyon. The Carthew-Alderson Trail links high country with the townsite, and the Buffalo Paddock keeps a small bison herd.
Compared with Banff or Jasper, Waterton feels smaller and quieter, which appeals to hikers and families alike. A 2017 wildfire reshaped many valleys, which are now regrowing.
WiserMap travel guideWaterton Lakes National Park Alberta Crypt and Cameron LakesPlan a Waterton Lakes visit with the Prince of Wales Hotel, Bear's Hump, Cameron Lake, Red Rock Canyon, Crypt Lake, stays, seasons and a three day itinerary.Read the guide
Upper Waterton Lake is the deepest lake in the Canadian Rockies, stretching south across the border into Glacier National Park in Montana. The small seasonal townsite on its shore has shops, restaurants, lodging and a lakeside trail. Deer often wander the streets. Most businesses open from May to October.
At the end of the Akamina Parkway, Cameron Lake sits in a deep basin below Mount Custer, with its far end in Montana. You can rent canoes, kayaks and paddleboats in summer, and an easy shoreline trail leads along the west side. Grizzlies often feed on the slopes at the far end, so keep your distance.
Built in 1927 by the Great Northern Railway, this grand wooden hotel stands on a windy bluff above Waterton Lake with one of the most photographed views in the Rockies. Non-guests can visit the lobby and enjoy afternoon tea by its huge windows. Hold onto your hat outside, as winds on the bluff can be very strong.
Cruises leave the townsite marina and sail down Upper Waterton Lake toward Goat Haunt in Montana, with commentary on the history, geology and wildlife of the area. Boats also serve as a water taxi to hiking trailheads such as Crypt Lake. Bring a jacket and check whether border rules allow landing at Goat Haunt.
Right in the townsite, Cameron Falls tumbles over some of the oldest exposed rock in the Canadian Rockies, about 1.5 billion years old. A short path climbs to a viewpoint above the falls. After heavy rain the water can turn pinkish from sediment. It is an easy stroll from anywhere in town and lovely in evening light.
At the end of the Red Rock Parkway, a short loop trail follows a narrow canyon carved into deep red and green argillite rock, with small waterfalls and pools. Black bears and bighorn sheep are often seen along the parkway. The road was rebuilt after the 2017 Kenow wildfire; check for seasonal opening dates.
A short but steep trail of about 1.2 km climbs from the visitor centre area to a rocky viewpoint over the townsite, Upper Waterton Lake and the Prince of Wales Hotel. It takes about an hour return. Go early or near sunset for the best light, and be prepared for strong winds at the top.
From the south end of the townsite, a trail leads about 3 km to Bertha Falls and then climbs switchbacks to Bertha Lake, about 5.8 km from the start. The lake is set in a deep bowl below steep peaks. The falls make an easier half-day goal. Carry bear spray and watch for wildflowers in early summer.
Often listed among Canada's best hikes, Crypt Lake begins with a boat ride across Upper Waterton Lake and climbs past waterfalls to a ladder, a short tunnel through rock and a cable-assisted ledge before reaching the lake. It is about 17 km return. Book the boat in advance and plan to catch the return sailing.
This classic one-way hike of about 20 km runs from Cameron Lake over Carthew Summit, past the Carthew Lakes and Alderson Lake, and down to the townsite. It offers wide alpine views. Use the hiker shuttle from town to the trailhead, start early, and be ready for wind and changing weather at the summit.
Just inside the park's north boundary, a fenced area holds a small herd of plains bison in their native fescue grassland, with Bison Paddock Viewpoint as a pull-off on the main road. The animals can range widely, so sightings are not guaranteed. Stay in your car and use binoculars from the viewpoint.
Along the Akamina Parkway, a small site marks the place where western Canada's first producing oil well was drilled in 1902. Panels tell the story of the short-lived oil boom and the ghost town of Oil City nearby. It takes only a few minutes and is a good stop on the way to Cameron Lake.
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