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The Great Bear Rainforest stretches along British Columbia's central and north coast, a maze of fjords, islands and steep, mossy valleys that ranks among the largest intact temperate rainforests on Earth. Much of it is the traditional territory of First Nations such as the Heiltsuk, Kitasoo/Xai'xais and Nuxalk, and a landmark conservation agreement now protects large parts of the forest from logging.
Wildlife is the main draw. Guided boat trips and lodges based near Klemtu and Bella Bella offer chances to see grizzlies, black bears and, on Princess Royal Island, the cream-colored Kermode or spirit bear, along with humpback whales and sea lions. On the southern edge, the Bella Coola Valley offers a road-accessible way in, with short forest walks at Clayton Falls Recreation Site, salmon at the Snootli Creek Hatchery and the high country of Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park above. At the northern end, Prince Rupert adds the Museum of Northern British Columbia and the Kwinitsa Station Railway Museum, while the North Pacific Cannery recalls the coast's fishing past.
This is a destination for patient, well-prepared travelers rather than casual sightseers. Weather is wet in every season, distances are long and many places can be reached only by boat or floatplane, so a guided tour or lodge package is usually the practical choice.
WiserMap travel guideGreat Bear Rainforest British Columbia Spirit BearsPlan a trip to the Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia, from Bella Coola and spirit bear country to Prince Rupert, with ferries, food and where to stay.Read the guide
At the head of North Bentinck Arm, the Bella Coola Valley is home to the Nuxalk Nation and small settler communities such as Hagensborg, surrounded by steep peaks and old-growth forest. It is reached by Highway 20 down The Hill or by BC Ferries in summer. Plan several days for hikes, bear viewing and local culture.
Bella Bella, on Campbell Island, is the main community of the Heiltsuk Nation and a stop on the BC Ferries Inside Passage routes. Visitors can see carvings and the Big House, and arrange boat tours to nearby beaches and conservancies through local operators. Services are limited, so book accommodation ahead.
The small Kitasoo/Xai'xais village of Klemtu lies on Swindle Island on the Inside Passage and is the gateway to spirit bear country. It has a striking Big House on the waterfront. Most visitors arrive by floatplane or ferry to stay at the community-run lodge, and access to the wider area is by guided boat tours.
In the Bella Coola Valley, a short uphill forest trail along Thorsen Creek leads to more than a hundred ancient Nuxalk rock carvings of faces and figures. The site is culturally important, so many visitors go with a Nuxalk guide who explains their meaning. Wear sturdy shoes, and never touch or trace the carvings.
In Dean Channel west of Bella Coola, this small park protects the rock where explorer Alexander Mackenzie wrote his name and the date in 1793, after becoming the first European to cross North America north of Mexico. The inscription was later carved in. It can only be reached by boat, often on tours from Bella Coola.
A short drive west of Bella Coola town, this forest recreation site sits where Clayton Falls Creek pours through a rocky gorge into the inlet. There are picnic tables, a viewing area and a small beach. It is a good spot to watch for eagles and seals, and it is especially powerful during spring snowmelt.
One of BC's largest parks covers the mountains and valleys east of Bella Coola, crossed by Highway 20. It includes the colourful Rainbow Range, the Hunlen Falls area and the Atnarko River, where grizzlies feed on salmon in late summer. Use the viewing platform at Belarko and stay alert in bear country.
This large marine conservancy on the central coast protects a maze of islands, white sand beaches and exposed outer coast between Calvert and Hunter islands. It is a destination for experienced sea kayakers, sailors and sport fishers. There are no services, so travel self-sufficient or with an outfitter, and respect Heiltsuk and Wuikinuxv land.
Co-managed with the Haisla Nation, the Kitlope protects one of the largest intact coastal temperate rainforest watersheds in the world, with huge Sitka spruce and western red cedar, glaciers and lakes. It is very remote, at the end of the Gardner Canal. Visits are arranged by boat or floatplane from Kitimat with Haisla guides.
Fiordland protects steep-walled inlets such as Kynoch and Mussel inlets, where waterfalls drop straight into the sea and grizzly bears feed in the estuaries. It lies north of Klemtu and is seen on boat cruises and sailing trips. There are no facilities, so trips are made with guides or as well-prepared private boaters.
Owned and run by the Kitasoo/Xai'xais Nation in Klemtu, Spirit Bear Lodge offers multi-day packages with guided boat trips to see the rare white Kermode spirit bear, black and grizzly bears, whales and wolves. The season runs from late spring to fall. Packages sell out a year ahead, so book very early.
Princess Royal Island is the core habitat of the Kermode or spirit bear, a black bear with a white coat caused by a rare gene. Guided viewing takes place along salmon streams in early fall, when bears fish for spawning salmon. Access is only by boat or floatplane with licensed guides, mostly from Klemtu.
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