Hierve el Agua is a set of white mineral formations on a mountainside in Oaxaca that look like waterfalls frozen in stone. The site sits about 70 kilometres east of Oaxaca City, in Mixe territory, and combines turquoise pools, clifftop views and traces of ancient Zapotec irrigation.
AT A GLANCE
Best time
The dry months from November to April give the clearest views and driest trails.
How long
Plan half a day at the site, or a full day including Mitla.
Getting there
Take a bus or colectivo from Oaxaca City to Mitla, then a colectivo up to the site.
Why visit Hierve el Agua
Hierve el Agua means "the water boils" in Spanish. The name comes from springs that seem to bubble up from the ground, and from rock formations that resemble cascades. They are among the few calcified waterfalls in the world.
The setting adds to the appeal. Cliffs drop away to a narrow valley, oak forest and cactus cover the slopes, and there are swimming pools with a view that few places can match.
The spring water is warm, roughly twenty-two to twenty-seven degrees Celsius, and it is rich in calcium carbonate. As it trickles over the cliffs it leaves mineral deposits, much as stalactites form in caves, so the formations are still growing today.
The cliffs and the formations
Cascada chica
The smaller formation, also called the Amphitheatre, is the most visited part of the site. A natural platform about sixty metres wide holds springs, small natural pools and two large artificial pools used for swimming. The water looks turquoise because of its high mineral content.
Cascada grande
Just south of the cascada chica and easy to see from it, the cascada grande is the larger and more vertical of the two formations. It is a rock shelf about ninety metres above the valley floor, with mineral-rich water that has left a white cascade running down the face.
The bubbling springs
Several springs rise from the level floor of the platform and appear to bubble up, which is the origin of the site's name. Their water is oversaturated with calcium carbonate, which is deposited as it flows over the edge.
The ancient canals
The Zapotecs built an irrigation system of terraces and canals here as much as 2,500 years ago. Researchers consider the lined canals unique in Mesoamerica, because the lining formed naturally from the mineral water.
The hiking loop below the falls
A trail leads from the cascada chica down below the cliffs and back up, giving you the waterfalls seen from underneath. The full loop takes around forty-five minutes and shows unusual rock shapes and desert plants.
Around the site and nearby
Food stalls and cabins
A small complex of food stands, market stalls and basic cabins serves visitors near the entrance.
San Lorenzo Albarradas
This small community is one of the two closest to the springs, and its residents help run the site. Roads here pass through villages and farmland on the way up.
Mitla
Mitla is a Zapotec and Mixtec spiritual centre and the natural stop on the way to or from Hierve el Agua. San Pablo Villa de Mitla is also the town where colectivos to the site depart.
Oaxaca City
Oaxaca City is the base for most visitors and the best place to eat well after a day outdoors. Its markets, churches and museums are worth at least a day of their own.
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Food and local flavors
Oaxacan cooking is the reason many people come to the region. Order a tlayuda, the big crisp tortilla topped with beans, quesillo, the local stringy cheese, and meat, at a stall or in the city.
Mezcal is the signature spirit of the state, and most of Mexico's mezcal comes from Oaxaca. At the site, vendors sell refreshing drinks including a piña loca made with fresh pineapple, mezcal and chilli. A few food stalls serve simple Mexican dishes.
Popular dishes to try in Hierve el Agua
Where to stay
Most visitors sleep in Oaxaca City, which has the widest choice of lodging, restaurants and tours. It suits first-time visitors who want to combine Hierve el Agua with Monte Albán and the city's food scene.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla is the better choice if you want an early start at the springs and time among the ruins. It is quieter and more local. Right at the site, the Turis Yu'u cabins offer very basic rooms and suit travellers who want to catch the sunset and morning calm.
Where to stay in Hierve el Agua
Best time to visit
The dry season from November to April is the most reliable for clear views and safe trails. March through May are the hottest months, so go early.
Weekends and holidays are busiest, so a weekday morning is calmer. In July, Oaxaca City hosts the Guelaguetza festival, and at the start of November the Day of the Dead fills the region with altars and processions.
Getting there and getting around
Oaxaca's airport receives several daily flights from Mexico City and other cities. From Oaxaca City, head toward Mitla on road 190, then follow signs onto the toll road or the longer free route.
By public transport, take a bus or colectivo from Oaxaca City to Mitla, then a pickup colectivo that leaves when full and runs up to the site. The ride is bumpy, so hold on. Once there, you will get around on foot along paths with many steps and uneven rocks.
A suggested itinerary
First day
Leave Oaxaca City early, stop in Mitla, then continue to Hierve el Agua. Walk the cascada chica, see the cascada grande and swim if conditions allow.
Second day
Return to the site for the hiking loop under the falls, or spend the morning at Monte Albán.
Practical tips
- Check whether the site is open before you travel, because disputes sometimes close it.
- Bring cash for entrance and access fees, as card payments are uncommon.
- Wear sturdy shoes with good grip, since steps and rock are uneven and can be wet.
- Carry water, a hat and sunscreen because shade is limited.
- Keep back from the cliff edge, especially near the lower artificial pool.
