Best timeNovember to April for dry weather, or July to September for turtles.
How longThree to five days for beaches, lagoons and a day trip.
Getting thereFly into Puerto Escondido airport or take the highway from Oaxaca City.
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Why visit Puerto Escondido
Until the 1930s there was no town here at all, and the bay was used only to ship coffee. Highway 200 opened in the 1960s, surfers and backpackers arrived, and the town has been growing as a beach destination ever since.
Today it mixes fishing boats, surf shacks, small hotels and relaxed seafood restaurants.
Plan on a slow pace here. Days naturally split into an early swim or boat trip, a long lunch in the shade, and an evening walk to watch the sunset over the water.
The best beaches
Playa Zicatela
Zicatela is the surf capital of Puerto Escondido, nicknamed the Mexican Pipeline for the power and shape of its waves. The beach hosts major competitions, including one in November.
Playa Zicatela is nicknamed the Mexican Pipeline for the power of its waves. Photo: Flickr contributor, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Playa Marinero
West of the El Moro rocky outcrop, Marinero has much less surf and fewer rip currents, so it is the best option for swimming. Beginners also try surfing and bodyboarding here. It is a good place to spend an easy morning.
Playa Principal is the town beach, about 500 metres long with fine gray sand and low to moderate waves. Fishermen come in at dawn to sell their catch to local restaurants and families, and boats here take visitors out to see dolphins and turtles.
Fishermen land their catch at Playa Principal at dawn. Photo: Nsaum75, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Puerto Angelito and Playa Manzanillo
West of the lighthouse and its stone walkway, the Andador Escénico, you reach the twin beaches of Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo in a sheltered cove. Small family-run restaurants sit under palapas, and the calm water suits snorkeling and swimming.
Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo are twin beaches in a sheltered cove. Photo: Carlos Miguélez Monroy, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Playa Carrizalillo
Carrizalillo is a small, scenic bay with white sand and cobalt water edged with green. There is no road to the beach, only a steep stairway from the street, so wear sturdy sandals.
Carrizalillo is a small bay reached by a steep stairway from the street. Photo: Flickr contributor, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Playa Bacocho
Bacocho is the westernmost developed beach, with fine soft sand, palm trees and a few upscale beach clubs. It faces southwest, so the sunsets are excellent.
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Lagoons, turtles and wildlife
Laguna de Manialtepec
About ten kilometres west of town, Manialtepec is a mangrove lagoon rich in birds such as pelicans, ibis, storks and kingfishers.
Laguna de Manialtepec lies west of Puerto Escondido and is full of mangroves and birds. Photo: Lunita28mx, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0
Lagunas de Chacahua National Park
Chacahua combines five lagoons, sandy Pacific beaches, mangrove swamps and a crocodile nursery. A Mixtec archaeological site lies inside the park, and small hotels and waterfront restaurants offer a place to stay.
From July to September thousands of olive ridley sea turtles come ashore at Playa Escobilla, between Puerto Escondido and Mazunte, to lay eggs. Visits go with a local guide, so book through a reputable operator and follow all instructions.
Olive ridley turtles nest in great numbers at Playa Escobilla between July and September. Photo: Claudio Giovenzana, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Town life and sunsets
El Adoquín
The Adoquín is the pedestrian street close to Playa Principal, lined with shops, restaurants and bars. Browse the craft stores in the afternoon, then return for dinner and live music.
Mercado Benito Juárez
The town market has fresh fish, produce, kitchenware and everyday Oaxacan snacks. Visit in the morning, and look for the days when fresh produce arrives from the interior of the state.
La Punta at sunset
At the southern end of Zicatela, walk around the cliff to a small rocky beach with a view of a lighthouse.
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Food and local flavors
Puerto Escondido cooking centers on seafood and local plants, including bananas, chocolate and coffee. Fish is brought in by local boats every morning, so order whatever the restaurant recommends that day.
You are also in Oaxaca, so the state's classics are easy to find.
For a market feel, visit Mercado Benito Juárez, or sit at a beachfront palapa at Puerto Angelito or Zicatela for a seafood lunch.
Popular dishes to try in Puerto Escondido
Tlayuda Try a tlayuda, a large crisp tortilla topped with beans, cheese, meat and vegetables, and mole negro, the deep, dark sauce served over chicken.Photo: Nsaum75, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0Mole negro Try a tlayuda, a large crisp tortilla topped with beans, cheese, meat and vegetables, and mole negro, the deep, dark sauce served over chicken.Photo: ProtoplasmaKid, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0Mezcal Tejate is a cold maize and cacao drink, and mezcal is the smoky agave spirit of the region, best sipped slowly.Photo: Alejandra Mendoza Santillan, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0Tejate Tejate is a cold maize and cacao drink, and mezcal is the smoky agave spirit of the region, best sipped slowly.Photo: Veronica Janeth Suárez Zaragoza, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Where to stay
Zicatela is the surfers' beach, with casual hotels, hostels and cafes along a busy strip. It suits surf travellers and anyone who wants waves outside the door, though it is a long walk from the center.
La Punta, at the southern end of Zicatela, has a laid-back, quieter feel with small restaurants, cafes and sunset views. It suits longer stays and travellers who like a calmer atmosphere.
Rinconada is a quieter residential area between the center and the beaches, with small hotels, local restaurants and easy access to Playa Principal and the Adoquín.
Where to stay in Puerto Escondido
Zicatela Where to stayZicatela is the surfers' beach, with casual hotels, hostels and cafes along a busy strip.Photo: Flickr contributor, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0La Punta La Punta, at the southern end of Zicatela, has a laid-back, quieter feel with small restaurants, cafes and sunset views.Photo: Anna Bertho, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0Rinconada Rinconada is a quieter residential area between the center and the beaches, with small hotels, local restaurants and easy access to Playa Principal and the Adoquín.Photo: Carlos Figueroa Rojas, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0Carrizalillo Carrizalillo, above the bay of the same name, is ideal for couples and families who want a calmer beach and a short stairway walk.Photo: Axolotesonriente, Wikimedia Commons, CC0
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Best time to visit
Puerto Escondido has a tropical, humid climate, with an average temperature around 28 degrees Celsius and a rainy season in the summer.
Mid to late summer is the low season for tourists, with fewer crowds and lower prices, and it is also when the turtles nest at Playa Escobilla.
In November the Fiestas de Noviembre and the Zicatela surfing competition bring concerts, events and visitors from many countries.
Getting there and getting around
Puerto Escondido International Airport is close to town, with flights from Mexico City on Aeroméxico and Viva Aerobus.
A new high-speed highway opened between Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido in 2024, cutting the journey to about three hours, and ADO buses serve the route.
In town, urban buses and collective taxis run along the main roads, and regular taxis cover the beaches. Ask the fare before you set off.
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A suggested itinerary
First day
Start early at Playa Principal to see the fishermen, then walk the Andador Escénico to Puerto Angelito.
Second day
Swim at Carrizalillo in the morning, lunch on the sand and relax at Marinero.
Third day
Join a boat trip on Manialtepec, or travel to Chacahua for a canoe ride.
Practical tips
Check your government's current travel advisory before you go.
Respect the surf at Zicatela and swim only where lifeguards or locals say it is safe.
Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and a refillable water bottle.
Wear sturdy sandals for the Carrizalillo stairway.
Book turtle and lagoon tours with licensed local guides.