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Pearls, diamonds and biryani built the fame of Hyderabad, founded in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah on the banks of the Musi River when the fortress city of Golconda ran short of water. The capital of Telangana sits on the rocky Deccan Plateau and is home to roughly ten million people, making it one of India's largest metropolitan areas.
The Qutb Shahi sultans gave the city the Charminar, Mecca Masjid and the domed royal tombs, while the Asaf Jahi Nizams, who ruled until 1948, left grand palaces such as Chowmahalla and Falaknuma. The Salar Jung Museum holds one of the country's richest private collections, and the old city bazaars around the Charminar still glitter with bangles and pearls.
Modern Hyderabad stretches west to the glass towers of HITEC City, one of India's great technology hubs. Evenings bring crowds to the shores of Hussain Sagar, and UNESCO has named the city a Creative City of Gastronomy, so leave room for biryani and, during Ramadan, haleem.
Built in 1591, the year Hyderabad was founded, the Charminar is a square monument with four grand arches and four slender minarets about 56 metres tall at the crossing of the old city's main streets. A small mosque sits on the upper floor. Come early, then wander into the bazaars around it.
West of Hyderabad, the granite ruins of Golconda Fort cover a hill that was the Qutb Shahi capital and heart of the diamond trade. A clap under the dome at the entrance gate carries up to the hilltop pavilion far above. The climb takes about an hour, and a sound and light show runs at night.
Just southwest of the Charminar, Mecca Masjid is a vast granite mosque begun by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah and completed in the Mughal era, among the largest mosques in India. Its prayer hall holds thousands, and several Nizams lie in a side enclosure. Dress modestly and avoid prayer times.
Birla Mandir in Hyderabad is a white marble Hindu temple to Lord Venkateswara on Naubat Pahad hill, overlooking Hussain Sagar and the city. Its carved towers blend South and North Indian styles, and the terraces are lovely at sunset. Phones and cameras are not allowed inside, so leave them behind.
A short walk from the Charminar, Chowmahalla Palace was the seat of the Asaf Jahi Nizams, its courtyards, fountains and halls now restored. The chandelier-hung Khilwat durbar hall is the highlight, with galleries of royal costumes, weapons and vintage cars. Check the weekly closing day.
On a hill south of Hyderabad's old city, Falaknuma Palace was built by a Paigah noble and later owned by the Nizams. Its name means mirror of the sky, and its Italian marble, Venetian chandeliers and vast dining hall are now part of a Taj luxury hotel. Book a meal or heritage tour to see inside.
Near Golconda Fort, the Qutb Shahi Tombs are the domed granite tombs of the Qutb Shahi sultans and their families, rising from terraced gardens with ornate stucco work. Restoration has revived the gardens, step wells and mosques as a heritage park. Late afternoon light on the domes is lovely.
On the south bank of the Musi, the Salar Jung Museum grew from the collection of Salar Jung III, who spent decades buying art worldwide. Highlights include the marble Veiled Rebecca, a musical clock that draws crowds on the hour, jade, ivory and manuscripts. Allow three hours.
Created in the 1560s under Qutb Shahi rule, Hussain Sagar is a heart-shaped lake linking Hyderabad with Secunderabad. A tall monolithic Buddha statue stands on a rock in the middle, reached by boat, and Necklace Road and Tank Bund fill with walkers at dusk. Evening boat rides show the city lights.
Running west from the Charminar toward Chowmahalla Palace, Laad Bazaar is a narrow, centuries-old market famed for lac bangles set with stones and glass, plus pearls, bridal wear and perfume. Shops are packed tight and bargaining is expected. Evenings before Eid and the wedding season are liveliest.
On the eastern edge of Hyderabad, Ramoji Film City is one of the largest film production centres in the world, with standing sets of streets, palaces and gardens used in Indian movies. Bus tours, live shows, rides and themed gardens fill a full day. Arrive at opening time.
Hyderabadi Biryani layers long-grain rice with marinated meat, saffron and fried onions, then seals and slow-cooks it in the dum style. Every local has a favourite restaurant, from old-city institutions to newer places in the west. Pair it with mirchi ka salan and double ka meetha.
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