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Pilgrims bathe in the Godavari at Ramkund, wine lovers tour vineyards on the edge of town, and trekkers climb rock forts in the hills: Nashik offers all three within a short drive. This city of more than 1.5 million people in northern Maharashtra is one of India's holiest places, linked in tradition to Rama's years of exile, and one of the four sites of the Kumbh Mela.
The old quarter of Panchavati, on the banks of the Godavari, is lined with ghats and temples built mainly in the Peshwa era of the 18th century, including the black-stone Kalaram Temple. Far older are the Pandavleni Caves, a group of Buddhist rock-cut halls carved into a hillside about two thousand years ago. Nashik's mild climate later turned it into the heart of India's wine industry.
Beyond the city, the road west leads to Trimbakeshwar, one of the twelve Jyotirlinga temples, and to the Brahmagiri hills where the Godavari rises. Monsoon brings waterfalls and green slopes, while the cooler months suit vineyard visits and treks.
The holiest bathing tank on the Godavari in Panchavati, Ramkund is where Rama is believed to have bathed during his exile, and families come to immerse the ashes of loved ones. Huge crowds gather here during the Simhastha Kumbh Mela. Early morning, as priests perform rites, is the best time.
Built in the late 18th century under the noble Sardar Rangarao Odhekar, this dark basalt temple is named for the black stone images of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana in its sanctum. In 1930 B. R. Ambedkar led a historic campaign here for Dalit temple entry. Leave your shoes at the gate.
Near the Ahilyabai Holkar bridge over the Godavari, this temple to Vishnu was built in 1756 by Gangadhar Yashwant Chandrachud. Its domes and finely carved stone exterior make it one of old Nashik's most handsome buildings. Pair it with Ramkund and Kalaram Temple on a morning walk.
About 28 kilometres west of Nashik, this black-stone Shiva temple is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, the most sacred Shiva shrines in India. The present building dates from the 18th century, under the Peshwa Balaji Bajirao. Queues grow long at weekends, so arrive early on a weekday.
On the road to Trimbakeshwar, this flat-topped hill is held by many devotees to be the birthplace of Hanuman. A popular trail climbs rock-cut steps to a plateau with a small lake, the Anjani Mata temple and wide valley views. The monsoon turns it green, but wet paths get slippery.
Rising above Trimbakeshwar, Brahmagiri is revered as the place where the Godavari River begins. Stone steps climb its steep face to shrines such as Gangadwar, with sweeping views of the Sahyadri hills from the top. Start early, carry water and keep snacks hidden from the monkeys.
This hill fort near Trimbakeshwar is famous for a narrow staircase cut straight up a near-vertical rock face, one of the most photographed climbs in Maharashtra. The trek from the villages below takes a few hours. It suits only those at ease with heights; avoid wet days and crowded weekends.
West of the city on the Gangapur road, the Godavari spills over a broad rocky ledge here, and locals also call the falls Dudhsagar for their milky foam. Small temples stand close by, making it a favourite short outing. The flow peaks from July to September; keep off the slick rocks.
Cut into the Trirashmi hill on the city's south-western edge, this group of about two dozen Buddhist caves is roughly two thousand years old. Inside are monastic halls, a chaitya hall with a stupa and inscriptions of Satavahana-era donors. A stepped path climbs up, so go early and carry water.
The winery that put Nashik on India's wine map planted its first vines in the late 1990s on rolling land west of the city. Guided tours show the winemaking areas, tastings follow, and restaurants overlook the vines. It also hosts the SulaFest music festival. Arrange a driver if you taste.
In Sinnar, east of Nashik, this museum shows a dazzling collection of zeolites and other minerals formed in the Deccan basalts of Maharashtra, including apophyllite, stilbite and blue cavansite. Displays explain how gas pockets in ancient lava filled with crystals. Allow about an hour.
About 60 kilometres north of Nashik near Vani, the shrine of the goddess Saptashrungi sits high on a sheer rock face of a seven-peaked mountain and is a major pilgrimage site in Maharashtra. A long flight of steps leads up, and a funicular now helps. Expect big crowds during Navratri.
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