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Vijayawada is the second-largest city of Andhra Pradesh in southern India, set on the banks of the Krishna River between the Eastern Ghats and Indrakeeladri hill, and famous for the Kanaka Durga Temple that crowns the hill. Also known as Bezawada, it is a busy commercial hub at the heart of the Andhra Pradesh Capital Region.
The river shapes the city. Prakasam Barrage spans the Krishna, Bhavani Island sits in the waters just above it, and canals run through the streets. Rock-cut temples are a highlight: the Undavalli Caves across the river, the Mogalrajapuram Caves in the city and the Akkanna Madanna Caves below Indrakeeladri.
History reaches back to Buddhist times at the Amaravati Stupa, beside the Amararama Temple, while Kondapalli Fort guards a hill village known for its wooden toys. Gandhi Hill, the Gunadala Matha Shrine and the Bapu Museum add more to see. October to February is the best time to visit, before the hot summer.
Kanaka Durga Temple crowns Indrakeeladri hill above the Krishna River in Vijayawada and is the city's most important shrine, dedicated to the goddess Kanaka Durga, who legend says defeated the demon Mahishasura. It is busiest during Dasara, and the hill gives views over the river.
Gunadala Matha Shrine, also called Mary Matha Church, is a Catholic pilgrimage site on Gunadala, the tallest hillock in Vijayawada. A church, a grotto and the Stations of the Cross lead up to an 18-foot cross on the summit, and its annual festival draws around a million devotees.
The Amaravati Stupa near Vijayawada is the ruin of a great Buddhist stupa built in phases from the third century BCE to about 250 CE beside the Krishna River at Amaravathi village. The site and its Archaeological Museum, run by the Archaeological Survey of India, display carved limestone panels.
Amararama Temple in Amaravathi, near Vijayawada, is one of the five sacred Pancharama Kshetras of Shiva and the only one on the Krishna River. Its main deity, Lord Amareswara, is a 15-foot white marble lingam, and the temple lies close to the Amaravati Stupa, so both fit easily into one trip.
Undavalli Caves, just across the Krishna River from Vijayawada, are monolithic rock-cut caves carved from a sandstone hill in the 4th to 5th centuries CE. The largest cave rises four storeys and holds a huge reclining statue of Vishnu, and its terraces look out over green fields.
Mogalrajapuram Caves are a group of small rock-cut Shiva cave temples in Vijayawada, generally dated to about the 7th century. Though modest in size, they hold refined carvings including Nataraja, Ganesh and Ardhanarishvara, and they make an easy and rewarding stop within the city.
Akkanna Madanna Caves are rock-cut Hindu cave temples at the foot of Indrakeeladri hill in Vijayawada, dated to the mid 7th century and dedicated to Shiva. The upper cave is the better preserved and has an important inscription, and the caves sit close to the climb up to Kanaka Durga Temple.
Kondapalli Fort stands on a hill west of Kondapalli village, a short drive from Vijayawada, built by the Reddi kings in the 14th century and later held by the Gajapatis, the Nizams and the British. Its ruined gateways and walls reward the climb, and the village is famous for painted wooden toys.
Prakasam Barrage stretches about 1,223 metres across the Krishna River in Vijayawada, joining the city to the Guntur side and doubling as a road bridge. Its three canals run through the city, and an evening walk along the barrage gives wide views of the river, Indrakeeladri hill and Bhavani Island.
Bhavani Island lies in the Krishna River just upstream of Prakasam Barrage in Vijayawada and is one of the largest river islands in India, covering 133 acres. Reached by boat, it makes a family outing with gardens, a robotic dinosaur park, mazes and other activities run by state tourism.
Gandhi Hill rises about 150 metres behind Vijayawada railway station and holds a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi known for its seven stupas. A stone slab carries quotations from Gandhi, the site also has a library and a planetarium, and the hilltop gives good views over the city of Vijayawada.
Bapu Museum on MG Road in Vijayawada, formerly the Victoria Jubilee Museum, is an archaeological museum set up for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887 and renamed after the artist Bapu. It shows Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, some from the 2nd and 3rd centuries, along with paintings.
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