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Wide stone steps run down to the Narmada at Narmadapuram, and the river shapes everything here, from the evening aarti to the city's very name. Known for centuries as Hoshangabad after Hoshang Shah, the first ruler of the Malwa Sultanate, the city on the south bank of the river was officially renamed Narmadapuram in recent years. It is the headquarters of its district and division, about 77 km from Bhopal.
The heart of town is Sethani Ghat, one of the largest ghats on the Narmada, where pilgrims bathe at dawn and lamps float downstream after dark. The Narmada Jayanti festival fills the riverfront with crowds and light. South of the city, the sandstone hills of Adamgarh hide prehistoric rock shelters with ancient paintings.
Narmadapuram also makes a practical base for central Madhya Pradesh: the Tawa Reservoir, the Madhai gate of Satpura Tiger Reserve and the hilltop temple at Salkanpur are all within driving distance. Summers are fiercely hot, so the dry, mild months from November to February are the most comfortable time to come.
Sethani Ghat is the riverfront that defines Narmadapuram, long flights of stone steps down to the Narmada and one of the largest ghats on the river. Pilgrims bathe at sunrise, priests perform the evening aarti with brass lamps and families float leaf-boat diyas after dark.
Narmada Jayanti celebrates the birth of the river goddess and is the biggest day of the year on Sethani Ghat in Narmadapuram. Thousands come to bathe, cultural programmes fill the riverfront and floating lamps cover the water at night. Book a room early and expect road closures.
A short drive from Narmadapuram, the Tawa River joins the Narmada at Bandrabhan, a sacred confluence lined with small shrines and sandy banks. A large fair takes place around Kartik Purnima. On ordinary days it is peaceful, with boats, fishermen and wide river views.
Across the Narmada from Narmadapuram via Budhni, Salkanpur Devi Temple is the hilltop shrine of Bijasan Mata, drawing large crowds especially during Navratri. Climb the long stairway or ride the ropeway, and the summit gives sweeping views over the forested Vindhya hills.
In the sandstone hills just south of Narmadapuram, the Adamgarh Rock Shelters hold ancient red ochre paintings of animals and human figures, and excavations here found Stone Age tools. Wear good shoes on the rocky paths, carry water and visit early to avoid the heat.
About an hour from Narmadapuram near Tawa Nagar, the Tawa Reservoir spreads behind a dam on the Tawa River, its backwaters touching the forests of Satpura Tiger Reserve. A state tourism resort by the water runs boat trips between wooded islands, and winter brings migratory birds.
Madhai is the main entrance to Satpura Tiger Reserve near Narmadapuram, a landscape of teak and sal forest. Safaris include open jeeps, boats on the Denwa River and guided walks, with gaur, sloth bear, leopard and tiger. The park closes in the monsoon, so go from October to June.
The road and rail bridges crossing the Narmada between Narmadapuram and Budhni frame some of the best river views in town, with old masonry piers of the railway crossing rising beside the modern road bridge. At sunset the wide river turns gold and fishing boats drift below.
Dhoopgarh near Pachmarhi, in Narmadapuram district, is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh and the Satpura range at 1,352 metres, famous for sunrise and sunset views over forested hills and gorges. It can be reached by road or on foot. Arrive well before sunset to find a spot.
The Pandav Caves are five ancient caves cut into a sandstone hill in Pachmarhi, which takes its name from them. Legend says the five Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata sheltered here during their exile. A garden surrounds the hill, and the caves are an easy stop in town.
Bee Falls is a popular waterfall near Pachmarhi, named because from a distance its sound resembles the hum of bees. A path leads down to the pool at its base, where visitors cool off and small fish nibble at feet. The steps are steep and can be slippery, so wear good shoes and take care after rain.
Jata Shankar is a cave in a deep ravine near Pachmarhi, filled with stalagmites and revered as a shrine of Shiva, where a stream emerges from beneath the rocks. Pilgrims climb down a stepped path through the gorge. The path is steep and damp, so wear sturdy shoes and go slowly.
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