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Coimbatore, known to locals as Kovai, is the busy industrial and textile hub of western Tamil Nadu, long nicknamed the Manchester of South India for its cotton mills. It sits in a broad valley on the Noyyal River, with the blue ridges of the Western Ghats rising to the west, and enjoys a milder climate than much of the state thanks to breezes through the Palakkad Gap.
The city is a gateway rather than a monument-filled destination, but it has real charm. Hill temples such as Marudamalai and the ornate Perur Pateeswarar Temple draw pilgrims daily, the Gass Forest Museum is a delightful old-fashioned curiosity, and the Gedee Car Museum is a must for motoring fans. In the foothills to the west, the giant Adiyogi bust at the Isha Yoga Center and the pilgrim trail up the Velliangiri Mountains attract visitors from across India.
Kovai is also known for its gentle Kongu cooking, vegetarian tiffin and filter coffee. Many travellers pass through on the way to Ooty and the Nilgiris, which are only a few hours away.
Marudamalai Temple crowns a forested hill on the western edge of Coimbatore and is dedicated to Lord Murugan, drawing devotees on festival days and weekends. Climb the long stairway through the trees or drive up for views over the city. Go early, leave footwear at the stand and dress modestly.
Perur Pateeswarar Temple stands on the Noyyal River west of central Coimbatore and is an ancient Shiva temple famed for its Kanaka Sabha. The hall's stone pillars are carved with deities, dancers and animals in astonishing detail. Remove your shoes and take time to study the sculptures.
Eachanari Vinayagar Temple on the Pollachi road south of Coimbatore is a popular Ganesha shrine with a large stone idol. Legend says the idol was being carried to Perur when the cart's axle broke here, so it stayed. Travellers stop to pray before journeys; early mornings are calmest.
Adiyogi Shiva Statue at the Isha Yoga Center near Coimbatore is a 34-metre steel bust of Shiva as the first yogi, unveiled in 2017 against the forested Velliangiri foothills. The nearby Dhyanalinga meditation dome is open to visitors too. It is about an hour by road; late afternoon light is best.
The Velliangiri Mountains west of Coimbatore, called the Kailash of the South, are climbed by pilgrims over seven hills to a Shiva shrine near the summit. The rocky, steep trek takes most of a day for the round trip. It opens only in the pilgrimage season, so check the rules and carry a torch.
Kovai Kutralam Falls tumble through dense forest in the Siruvani foothills west of Coimbatore and make a favourite day out. The forest department controls access, running vehicles from the entry point to a footpath near the falls. It can close after heavy rain or in dry spells, so check first.
TNAU Botanical Garden lies on the campus of the Tamil Nadu Agricultural University in Coimbatore, with shaded lawns, flowering beds, rare trees, a fernery and glasshouses. The university grounds are among the greenest in the city. It suits a quiet morning walk; check opening times first.
Coimbatore Race Course, once a horse-racing track, is now a leafy district centred on a wide tree-lined oval with a popular walking and jogging path, old bungalows and churches. Locals come out to exercise at dawn and dusk, with cafes nearby. It is one of the city's calmest corners.
Gass Forest Museum in Coimbatore was founded in 1902 and named after the forester Horace Archibald Gass. On a forestry research campus, it displays stuffed animals, birds, insects, seeds and tree trunk sections from South Indian forests in old wooden cases. Allow an hour.
Gedee Car Museum on Avinashi Road in Coimbatore shows a large collection of vintage and classic cars from around the world, from early motor cars to mid-century models. It is run by the trust linked to inventor G. D. Naidu, whose industrial exhibition is next door. Allow two hours.
Annapoorna Gowrishankar is a vegetarian restaurant chain born in Coimbatore and now a local institution for South Indian tiffin. Order the famous sambar idli, crisp dosas, pongal and vadai, then strong filter coffee in a steel tumbler. Breakfast is the classic time, when families fill the branches.
Brookefields Mall is one of the largest malls in Coimbatore, with fashion and electronics stores, a food court, restaurants, a hypermarket and a multiplex cinema under one roof. It is a handy air-conditioned stop for supplies or a rainy afternoon. Weekday afternoons are least crowded.
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