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Salem is a city in northern Tamil Nadu, India, ringed by hills at the foot of the Shevaroy range, famous for its sweet Salem mangoes, its steel and textile industries, and as the gateway to the hill station of Yercaud and the great Mettur Dam on the Kaveri River.
An old centre of the Kongu region, Salem grew as a weaving and trading town and was one of the early districts formed under British rule. Today it is one of the largest cities in Tamil Nadu, known for its silk and cotton handlooms, sago production and the Salem Steel Plant, as well as its busy temples.
Visitors pray at the Kottai Mariamman and Sugavaneswarar temples, admire the carvings of the Kailasanathar Temple at Tharamangalam, and climb the ghat road to Yercaud for its lake, viewpoints and waterfalls. Mettur Dam and the hill fort of Sankagiri make good day trips. Summer brings the mango season and cool weekends in the hills above the city.
Kottai Mariamman Temple stands in the old fort quarter of Salem and is dedicated to Mariamman, the goddess honoured as the guardian of the city. Its tall painted gopuram rises over a busy street, and the Aadi festival in July and August draws huge crowds of devotees. Dress modestly to enter.
Sugavaneswarar Temple is an ancient Shiva temple in the heart of Salem, near the Thirumanimutharu river, praised in the Tamil Tevaram hymns. Legend links its name with the parrot-faced sage Suka, who is said to have worshipped Shiva here. Its pillared halls and temple tank are worth a quiet visit.
The Kailasanathar Temple at Tharamangalam, about 25 km west of Salem, is famous for its remarkable stone carvings, largely added by the local Gatti Mudaliar chieftains. Pillars carved with horsemen, mythical lions and life-size figures fill its halls. Allow time to study the sculptures.
Sankagiri Fort crowns a steep rocky hill in Sankagiri, about 40 km southwest of Salem, with stone walls winding up the slopes. It was held by Tipu Sultan and later the British, who hanged the freedom fighter Dheeran Chinnamalai here in 1805. The climb is steep, so start early.
Yercaud Lake is the centrepiece of Yercaud, a hill station in the Shevaroy Hills about 30 km from Salem, set at around 1,500 metres. Rowing and pedal boats glide past wooded banks, and Anna Park and the deer park lie close by. Cool air makes it a favourite escape from the plains.
Lady's Seat is a rocky viewpoint on the edge of Yercaud, the hill station above Salem, with wide views down the winding ghat road to the plains below. On clear days the view stretches far across the plains, and at dusk the lights of Salem glitter below. Sunset is the best time to come.
Pagoda Point is a viewpoint on the eastern side of Yercaud, the hill station near Salem, named after the pyramid-shaped piles of stones built there by local people. A small Rama temple stands on the point, and the views over the valleys and villages below are among the finest in the Shevaroy Hills.
Kiliyur Falls is a waterfall near Yercaud, the hill station above Salem, where the overflow from Yercaud Lake plunges down a rocky cliff into the valley. A steep path of steps leads down to the base of the falls. It is most impressive just after the monsoon, between September and December.
Mettur Dam on the Kaveri River, about 50 km northwest of Salem, was completed in 1934 and holds back the huge Stanley Reservoir, one of the largest in India. A park below the dam is popular with families, and the long dam wall is most impressive when the water is high after the monsoon.
Mookaneri Lake, also called Kannankurichi Lake, lies at the foot of the Shevaroy Hills on the northern edge of Salem. Restored by local volunteers, it now has small tree-covered islands that attract many water birds, and a walking track along its bund is popular in the mornings and evenings.
Kurumbapatti Zoological Park is a small zoo at the foot of the Shevaroy Hills, about 10 km from central Salem. Shady paths lead past enclosures with deer, crocodiles, monkeys and many birds, set in natural scrub forest. It is a pleasant short stop for families on the way to Yercaud.
Yercaud Botanical Garden is run by the Botanical Survey of India in Yercaud, the hill station above Salem, and preserves the plants of the Shevaroy Hills. Its orchidarium holds many native orchids, and terraced beds of trees, ferns and flowering shrubs make a calm walk away from the busy lake.
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Photo: Yercaud-elango, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
