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Xico is a small town in the coffee-growing highlands of central Veracruz, a short distance from the state capital, Xalapa. Surrounded by cloud forest and plantations on the slopes of the Cofre de Perote, it has whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, and a strong tradition of regional cooking. It was named a Pueblo Mágico in 2011.
Most visitors come for the Cascada de Texolo, a tall waterfall in a lush gorge just outside town, where a footbridge and smaller falls are reached by stairs and trails. The Xico town centre is pleasant for wandering, and local kitchens serve mole xiqueño, a sweet, rich version of the sauce, alongside fruit liqueurs. Nearby Coatepec is another coffee town with cafés and old haciendas, and Naolinco is known for leather goods. In Xalapa itself, the Museo de Antropología de Xalapa holds a superb collection of Olmec heads and Gulf Coast artifacts, and the city also offers the Pinacoteca Diego Rivera, the terraced Parque Juárez, the Jardín Botánico Francisco Javier Clavijero, and the lively Callejón Diamante near the cathedral.
Xico suits food lovers and nature-minded travelers. Mist and rain are frequent, keeping the countryside green. The July festival of Santa María Magdalena brings decorated streets and bull-running traditions.
WiserMap travel guideXico Mexico Texolo Waterfall Mole and Coffee CountryPlan a trip to Xico Veracruz: Cascada de Texolo, mole xiqueño, coffee country in Coatepec and the museums and gardens of nearby Xalapa, with practical tips.Read the guide
Just outside Xico, the Texolo waterfall drops about 40 metres into a lush green gorge, and it featured in films such as Romancing the Stone. A short walk from the parking area leads to viewpoints and small restaurants. Paths can be slippery in the rainy season, so wear good shoes.
A smaller waterfall close to Texolo, reached by a footpath through the forest and coffee plants near the main falls. It is quieter and pleasant for a short walk and a rest by the water. Ask locals at Texolo for the path, and avoid it after heavy rain when the trail gets muddy.
The hills around Xico are covered in shade-grown coffee farms, part of the Coatepec coffee region. Some fincas offer tours explaining how beans are grown, picked and roasted, with tastings at the end. Harvest season from roughly November to February is the most interesting time to visit.
Xico is a Pueblo Mágico of cobbled streets, red-tiled roofs and colourful houses on the slopes of the Cofre de Perote. The main street climbs gently to the church past shops selling liqueurs, sweets and local crafts. It is compact, so a slow walk of an hour or two covers the centre.
The parish church of Santa María Magdalena sits at the top of the main street and is the spiritual heart of town. Its facade and tower overlook the plaza and long staircases. During the July fiesta it is decorated with flower arches. Visitors are welcome outside service times.
This unusual museum displays hundreds of elaborate dresses donated over the years to dress the image of Mary Magdalene, the patron saint of Xico. Many are richly embroidered and decorated. It is small and close to the church, and a visit takes about half an hour.
Around 22 July, Xico celebrates its patron saint with processions, huge flower and sawdust carpets laid on the streets, traditional dances and the Xiqueñada, a running of bulls through town. It is the busiest time of year, so book lodging well ahead and expect crowds.
Xico is known across Mexico for its own sweet and slightly spicy mole, made with chiles, fruit, nuts and chocolate. Local restaurants serve it over chicken or turkey, and shops in the centre sell jars and paste to take home. Try it with handmade tortillas and finish with a local fruit liqueur.
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Photo: Comisión Mexicana de Filmaciones from México D. F., México, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
Photo: Comisión Mexicana de Filmaciones from México D. F., México, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
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Photo: Adam Jones from Kelowna, BC, Canada, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
Photo: Adam Jones from Kelowna, BC, Canada, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
