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Los Tuxtlas is a volcanic region in southern Veracruz where green mountains drop toward the Gulf of Mexico. Much of the area is protected as a biosphere reserve, sheltering some of the northernmost tropical rainforest in the Americas. The region was also part of the Olmec heartland, and its towns are known for tobacco, cattle, and, in Catemaco, a long folk tradition of healers and brujos.
Lake Catemaco, a broad crater-ringed lake, is the main draw, and a boat tour passes islands, fishing villages, and a colony of monkeys introduced for research decades ago. The Catemaco town centre has a lakeside promenade and a large church, and the Nanciyaga ecological reserve offers rainforest walks and traditional temazcal baths. Toward the coast, mangrove-lined Sontecomapan lagoon leads to quiet beaches, and Montepío has a rocky shoreline and river mouth. Eyipantla Falls, near San Andrés Tuxtla, tumbles down a wide basalt ledge. Santiago Tuxtla displays a colossal Olmec head in its plaza and holds the Museo Regional Tuxteco, while the archaeological site of Tres Zapotes lies farther west.
The region suits independent travelers comfortable with modest infrastructure and humid weather. San Andrés Tuxtla is the commercial hub, Catemaco the most popular base. Rain is frequent much of the year, so drier spring months tend to be easiest.
WiserMap travel guideLos Tuxtlas Mexico Lake Catemaco and Eyipantla FallsPlan a trip to Los Tuxtlas Veracruz: Lake Catemaco boat tours, Eyipantla Falls, Olmec heads at Santiago Tuxtla, cigar country and Gulf beaches at Montepío.Read the guide
Large volcanic lake surrounded by green hills, the heart of the Los Tuxtlas region. Boat tours leave from the Catemaco waterfront to visit islands, springs and shoreline eco-parks. Agree on the route and price before boarding, and go in the morning for calm water and birds.
Small crater lake in the forest a short drive from San Andrés Tuxtla, surrounded by steep green slopes. Local lore says its water rises in the dry season and drops when the rains come, hence the name. A path circles part of the shore; go with a local guide and avoid swimming alone.
The highest volcano of the Los Tuxtlas range, rising about 1,650 meters above the coast, with a last major eruption in 1793. Its slopes are covered in cloud forest and rainforest. Climbing it is a long, muddy hike that requires a local guide, good boots and an early start.
Rainforest research station run by the National Autonomous University of Mexico on the road between Catemaco and Montepío, studying one of the best preserved forests in the region. Howler monkeys are often heard nearby. Visits are by prior arrangement, so contact the station ahead.
Large protected area of volcanoes, tropical rainforest, lakes and coast, one of the northernmost rainforests in the Americas, with howler monkeys and hundreds of bird species. Local guides lead hikes, including up the San Martín volcano. Hire a guide and plan around the weather.
Dramatic rock headland on the wild Los Tuxtlas coast, split by the sea and pounded by waves, near the fishing village of Arroyo de Liza. It is a striking place for photos and seabirds. The road is rough and services are minimal, so go by day and ask locals about conditions.
Secluded beach reached by a steep path through the forest near Montepío, framed by green cliffs and hills that drop to the Gulf of Mexico. There are few or no services. Bring water and food, check the sea before swimming and leave nothing behind on this quiet shore.
The region's main town, known across Mexico for its tobacco and hand-rolled cigars. Visit a cigar workshop to see how they are made, then wander the busy center around the cathedral. It is a practical base with banks, markets and transport to the rest of the region.
Quiet colonial town whose main plaza displays the Cobata Head, the largest known Olmec colossal head, carved from basalt. The town has old houses and a relaxed feel. See the head in the plaza and then visit the regional museum nearby to learn about the Olmecs.
Museum on the main plaza of Santiago Tuxtla displaying Olmec sculptures, including a colossal head from Tres Zapotes, along with ceramics, tools and local history exhibits. It is small but rich in rare pieces. Allow about an hour, and combine it with a visit to Tres Zapotes.
Archaeological site southwest of Santiago Tuxtla, one of the major Olmec centers and later a long-lived regional town. Mounds remain in the fields, and a small site museum displays carved stelae and a colossal head. Ask about opening hours before you go, as the site is remote.
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