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Varanasi, also known as Banaras or Kashi, stretches along the western bank of the Ganges in Uttar Pradesh and is regarded as one of the holiest cities in Hinduism. It is often described as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Pilgrims come to bathe in the river, to pray and, for many Hindus, to be cremated here, believing it offers release from the cycle of rebirth. Few places expose daily life and ritual so openly.
The ghats, stone steps leading down to the water, are the heart of any visit. Each evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, priests perform the Ganga aarti with fire, bells and chanting, and the crowds spill onto boats moored offshore. Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation ground, where fires burn day and night and visitors are expected to watch quietly and avoid photographs. Assi Ghat, at the southern end, has a more relaxed mood and morning ceremonies of its own. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva, and the Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple draw constant worshippers.
A sunrise boat ride and an unhurried walk along the central ghats are the best introductions. The old city's lanes are narrow and disorienting, so allow time. Banaras Hindu University offers calmer surroundings, and Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, is a short drive away.
WiserMap travel guideVaranasi India Sacred Ghats Ganga Aarti and SarnathPlan a trip to Varanasi with this guide to the ghats, Ganga Aarti, Kashi Vishwanath, Sarnath, local food, where to stay and the best season to visit.Read the guide
The main ghat of Varanasi, near the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, always busy with pilgrims, boats and vendors. Every evening, priests perform the Ganga Aarti with fire lamps, bells and chanting. Arrive at least an hour early for a good spot on the steps, or watch from a boat on the river.
Varanasi's main cremation ghat, where fires burn day and night and Hindus believe cremation here brings release from the cycle of rebirth. Visitors may watch from a respectful distance. Do not take photos of cremations, and ignore men who demand money for wood or donations as a false guide.
The southernmost major ghat, where the Assi River meets the Ganges, popular with students, travelers and pilgrims. Mornings bring the Subah-e-Banaras program of prayers, music and yoga at sunrise. There are many cafes and guesthouses nearby. It is a calmer spot than Dashashwamedh for sunset too.
Walking the riverfront between Assi and Manikarnika passes dozens of ghats, each with temples, palaces, bathers, laundry and sadhus. Highlights include Darbhanga Ghat and the Man Mandir observatory. The full walk takes a few hours. Go early in the morning, when the light and activity are best.
A rowboat ride along the Ganges at dawn gives the best view of the ghats as pilgrims bathe and pray in the morning light. Boats leave from Dashashwamedh, Assi and other ghats. Agree on price and duration before getting in, and choose a rowing boat over a motorboat for a quieter ride.
One of the most sacred Hindu temples, dedicated to Shiva, with a gold-plated spire. The Kashi Vishwanath Corridor connects it to the river ghats. Security is tight, and phones, bags and pens must be left in lockers. Non-Hindus can usually enter. Expect long lines, especially on Mondays and festival days.
A popular temple to Hanuman near Banaras Hindu University, founded by the poet-saint Tulsidas. It is busiest on Tuesdays and Saturdays, when devotees bring offerings of laddoos. Monkeys live in the grounds. Phones are not allowed inside, so leave them in lockers, and watch your belongings.
The Durga Temple is an 18th century red-painted shrine with a tank beside it. Next door, the white marble Tulsi Manas Mandir marks where Tulsidas is said to have written the Ramcharitmanas, whose verses line its walls. Both are close to Sankat Mochan, so they make an easy group to visit.
One of the largest residential universities in Asia, founded in 1916 by Madan Mohan Malaviya, with a leafy campus in the south of the city. It contains the tall New Vishwanath Temple, open to all, and the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum. Its wide roads are a calm break from the old city. Hire a rickshaw to get around.
A museum on the Banaras Hindu University campus with miniature paintings, textiles, sculptures, coins and decorative arts, including Mughal and Rajput works and fine Banarasi brocades. It also has a gallery dedicated to Varanasi. Photography may be restricted. Check opening times and closures before you go.
The deer park about 10 kilometers from Varanasi where the Buddha gave his first sermon, one of Buddhism's four main pilgrimage sites. The Dhamek Stupa, ruins of monasteries and the Sarnath Museum, with the Lion Capital of Ashoka, are highlights. The museum is closed on Fridays, so plan around that.
An 18th century sandstone fort on the east bank of the Ganges, home of the Maharaja of Benaras. Its museum shows vintage cars, palanquins, arms and an astronomical clock. The fort hosts a month-long Ramlila performance in autumn. Visit in late afternoon and cross back over the river by bridge.
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