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Kathmandu, Nepal's capital, fills a bowl-shaped valley in the Himalayan foothills that was once divided among three royal cities: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Newar artisans filled the valley with pagoda temples, carved wooden windows and brick courtyards, and Hindu and Buddhist traditions intertwine at its shrines. Seven monument zones in the valley together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kathmandu Durbar Square, centered on the old Hanuman Dhoka palace, is still recovering from the 2015 earthquake, which toppled the ancient Kasthamandap pavilion, since rebuilt. At the Kumari Ghar, a young girl revered as a living goddess occasionally appears at a carved window. Lanes lead north through the busy market squares of Asan and Indra Chowk toward Thamel, the traveler district, where the Garden of Dreams offers a quiet neoclassical refuge. On a hill to the west, Swayambhunath's stupa looks over the city, and Boudhanath, one of the largest stupas in the world, is circled by pilgrims and Tibetan monasteries. Hindu cremations take place on the riverbank at Pashupatinath. Patan Durbar Square is known for metalwork and an excellent museum, while Bhaktapur preserves an especially atmospheric old town.
Kathmandu suits culture-focused travelers and trekkers preparing for the mountains. Traffic and dust can be intense, and staying in Patan or Bhaktapur offers a calmer pace. Autumn and spring bring the clearest skies.
WiserMap travel guideKathmandu Nepal Stupas Durbar Squares and Newari FoodPlan Kathmandu: Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan and Bhaktapur, plus Newari food, festival seasons and tips for getting around.Read the guide
The old royal palace square of Kathmandu, a UNESCO site full of pagoda temples, shrines and courtyards. Hanuman Dhoka is the former palace complex with museums and a statue of Hanuman. Several buildings are still being rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake. Foreign visitors pay an entry fee at the ticket booths.
A three-storey wooden pavilion on the edge of Durbar Square that is said to have given Kathmandu its name. It was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake and rebuilt by local craftsmen using traditional methods and timber, reopening in 2021. It is an active public shrine, so walk around it calmly and respect worshippers.
The home of the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as a living goddess, located on Durbar Square. The 18th century building has a carved wooden courtyard where the Kumari sometimes appears at a window. Photographing the Kumari is strictly forbidden. Be patient and quiet in the courtyard if you hope to see her.
The palace square of Patan, a city just south of Kathmandu across the Bagmati River, with dense Newar temples and the stone Krishna Mandir. The Patan Museum in the old palace is one of the best museums in Nepal, with bronzes and religious art. Allow half a day, and the museum cafe is a good break.
A hilltop Buddhist stupa west of the city, known as the Monkey Temple, with the Buddha's eyes painted on its golden tower. A steep stairway of 365 steps leads up from the east, while a road reaches the back. It has wide views over the valley. Watch your food and bags around the monkeys, and walk around clockwise.
One of the largest stupas in the world and a center of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal, ringed by monasteries, prayer wheels, shops and rooftop cafes. Pilgrims walk the circuit clockwise, spinning prayer wheels. Visit at dusk, when butter lamps are lit and the kora is busiest, and have tea on a rooftop.
Nepal's most sacred Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva and set on the banks of the Bagmati River. Only Hindus may enter the main temple, but visitors can watch cremations at the riverside ghats from across the water and see sadhus. Be respectful at the ghats, and do not take close photos of grieving families.
Old market squares north of Durbar Square where narrow lanes meet, crowded with spice sellers, brass shops, fabric stalls and small temples. Asan has the Annapurna Temple, and Indra Chowk has the Akash Bhairav Temple. Walk through in the morning for the busiest market scenes, and watch for motorbikes.
Thamel is the backpacker and trekking hub of Kathmandu, packed with gear shops, guesthouses, bookshops and restaurants. On its edge, the Garden of Dreams is a restored neoclassical garden from the 1920s with pavilions, ponds and a cafe. The garden makes a quiet escape, and it has a small entry fee.
A well-preserved Newar city about 13 kilometers east of Kathmandu, with Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square and the five-storey Nyatapola Temple. It is known for pottery, wood carving and juju dhau, a sweet yogurt. Foreigners pay an entry fee that lasts a week. Stay overnight to see it quiet after day visitors leave.
Nagarkot is a hill village on the eastern valley rim known for sunrise views of the Himalaya, including Langtang on clear days. Chandragiri, southwest of the city, is reached by a cable car to a hilltop temple and viewpoints. Mountain views are clearest from October to December, often vanishing in haze later.
The former royal palace of Nepal's Shah kings, opened as a museum after the monarchy ended in 2008. Visitors see state rooms, throne halls and gifts from foreign leaders, along with the site of the 2001 royal massacre. Cameras and phones must be left in lockers, and the museum is closed on some weekdays.
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