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Prayagraj, long known as Allahabad, is a historic city in Uttar Pradesh, India, famous as the meeting point of the Ganges and Yamuna at the sacred Triveni Sangam and as host of the Kumbh Mela, the largest gathering of pilgrims on Earth. Every January and February the sands of the Sangam also fill with the tents of the Magh Mela.
The city's past is written along its rivers and avenues. Akbar's Allahabad Fort guards the confluence, Khusro Bagh shelters Mughal tombs in a walled garden, and the Gothic All Saints Cathedral anchors the colonial Civil Lines. Anand Bhavan and Swaraj Bhavan, the homes of the Nehru family, tell the story of India's freedom movement.
Museums and parks fill out a visit: the Allahabad Museum shows prehistoric rock art in Chandra Shekhar Azad Park, while the cable-stayed New Yamuna Bridge lights up at night. October to March is the best time to come, and a boat ride at dawn on the Sangam is the classic start to the day.
Triveni Sangam in Prayagraj is the sacred confluence of the Ganges, the Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati, where the brown and green waters can be seen meeting. Pilgrims hire boats from the ghats near the fort to bathe at the meeting point, and sunrise is the best time to go.
The Kumbh Mela at Prayagraj is the largest of India's four Kumbh gatherings, a Hindu pilgrimage held on the sands of the Sangam every 12 years, with the smaller Magh Mela each January and February. Millions bathe on the main dates, so book stays and transport well ahead.
Alopi Devi Mandir in Prayagraj's Alopibagh, close to the Sangam, is an unusual Hindu temple with no idol: devotees instead worship a wooden carriage, or doli, raised above a platform. It is one of the city's most revered shrines and pairs well with a morning boat ride on the rivers.
Bade Hanuman Temple, beside Allahabad Fort near the Sangam in Prayagraj, is famous for its large reclining idol of Hanuman, which lies below the level of the ground around it. Pilgrims stop here after bathing at the confluence, and the temple is busiest on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Allahabad Fort was built by the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1583 on the banks of the Yamuna, near its confluence with the Ganges in Prayagraj. Most of it is used by the Indian Army, but its massive walls are best seen from a boat, and the Akshayavat tree and Patalpuri Temple inside are open to pilgrims.
Khusro Bagh is a large walled Mughal garden in Prayagraj, near Prayagraj Junction station, holding the sandstone tombs of Prince Khusrau Mirza, his mother Shah Begum and his sister Nithar Begum. The shady quadrangle covers about forty acres and is a quiet escape from the busy streets.
All Saints Cathedral in Prayagraj, known locally as Patthar Girja or the Church of Stones, is a Gothic Revival church designed by William Emerson, architect of Kolkata's Victoria Memorial, and consecrated in 1887. It stands on a green island where two main roads of the Civil Lines cross.
The University of Allahabad in Prayagraj, founded in 1887, is regarded as the fourth oldest modern university in India and grew out of Muir Central College. The college buildings by William Emerson, with a tall tower and domes, make a grand sight on a walk through the campus.
Anand Bhavan in Prayagraj is the historic Nehru family home, bought by Motilal Nehru and donated to the nation by Indira Gandhi in 1970, and now a house museum about the Nehrus and the freedom struggle. The Jawahar Planetarium in the same grounds runs regular astronomy shows for visitors.
The Allahabad Museum in Prayagraj is a national museum founded in 1931, known for its sculptures, coins, paintings and archaeology. Its rock art gallery holds the largest display of prehistoric paintings in India, and the museum sits in the green surroundings of Chandra Shekhar Azad Park.
Chandra Shekhar Azad Park in Prayagraj, once called Alfred Park, is the city's biggest park at 54 hectares, laid out in 1870. It is named after the revolutionary Chandra Shekhar Azad, who died here in 1931, and his statue marks the spot among lawns and old trees that are popular with walkers.
The New Yamuna Bridge is a cable-stayed bridge in Prayagraj that crosses the Yamuna between the city and Naini, completed in 2004 with a main span of 260 metres. Lit up after dark, it is one of the city's modern landmarks, and the riverbanks near the Sangam give fine views of it.
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