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Khulna is the river city of south-western Bangladesh and the main gateway to the Sundarbans, the vast mangrove forest where Bengal tigers roam the tidal creeks. Set on the Rupsha and Bhairab rivers, it grew as a trading and industrial port for jute, timber and later shrimp, and it ranks among the largest cities in the country.
The centre is busy rather than picturesque, but the river gives it character. Ferries and country boats cross from the ghats below the long Khan Jahan Ali Bridge, the Divisional Museum displays finds from the region's past, and the Gollamari memorial recalls the losses of the 1971 Liberation War. North of town, Dakshindihi preserves the family home of Rabindranath Tagore's wife. Local kitchens are known for chui jhal, a peppery vine stem cooked with mutton or fish.
Most visitors come to board a boat for the Sundarbans, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on trips of one to several days. The mosque city of Bagerhat is also within easy reach.
Known locally as the Rupsha Bridge, this concrete road bridge spans the Rupsha River on the southern edge of Khulna and carries traffic toward Mongla port. It is named after the 15th-century saint Khan Jahan Ali. In the evening the banks below fill with people watching boats and the sunset.
Khulna is the southwestern end of the Bangladesh rail network, and its station is now a large white terminal with a long covered forecourt. Trains head north toward Jessore and Rajshahi, and the cross-border Bandhan Express links the city with Kolkata. Book early for weekend travel.
On the riverfront near the city centre, Rupsha Ghat is the landing where wooden boats and launches ferry passengers across the wide Rupsha River all day. Sitting on the steps here is the simplest way to watch Khulna's river traffic, from cargo boats to fishermen. Late afternoon light is best.
Shahid Hadis Park is the main green space in central Khulna, entered through a grand pillared gate and named after a martyr of the 1969 mass uprising. Its Shaheed Minar draws crowds laying flowers on 21 February. Come early in the morning or near dusk, when walkers and joggers fill the paths.
Gollamari, on the road to Khulna University, was a site where Pakistani forces and their collaborators killed large numbers of people during the 1971 Liberation War. The memorial raised here, Gollamari Smritisoudho, honours the victims. Crowds lay flowers here on 16 December and 26 March.
This government museum gathers archaeological finds from Khulna Division, including stone and terracotta sculpture, inscriptions, coins and objects from old temple and mosque sites in the southwest. It gives useful background before a trip to Bagerhat. Check opening days first.
In Dakshindihi village north of the city, this restored house was the family home of Mrinalini Devi, the wife of the poet Rabindranath Tagore. The complex now holds busts, photographs and a small display about the Tagore connection. Pair it with a drive through the green countryside.
Odommo Bangla, meaning Indomitable Bangla, is a large sculpture of freedom fighters on the green campus of Khulna University, built in memory of the 1971 Liberation War. It is the campus's best-known landmark, and students gather here on national days. Morning light suits photos.
Founded in 1991 at Gollamari on the edge of the city, Khulna University has one of the greenest campuses in the region, with shaded avenues, a lake and open lawns. The grounds are popular for evening walks, and the Odommo Bangla sculpture stands nearby. Keep noise down near classes.
Khulna University of Engineering and Technology spreads across a large campus at Fulbarigate, north of the centre, with landscaped gardens, ponds and student halls. It began as an engineering college in the late 1960s and became a full university in 2003. The lawns glow at sunset.
Durbar Bangla, meaning Unstoppable Bangla, is a tall white sculpture of freedom fighters with a raised flag that stands on a lawn on the KUET campus. It honours the Liberation War, and on national days students light candles in a ring around it. The central field gives the clearest view.
Government Brajalal College, usually called BL College, is one of the oldest colleges in southwest Bangladesh, founded in 1902 at Daulatpur beside the Bhairab River. Its leafy campus mixes old red-brick buildings, large ponds and a temple. Its huge shade trees make a calm break from the city.
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