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The Sierra Gorda is a mountainous region in northeastern Querétaro, protected as a biosphere reserve because of its remarkable range of ecosystems, from dry scrub and canyons to pine-oak and cloud forests. In the eighteenth century, Franciscan friars led by Junípero Serra founded five missions among the Pame communities here, and their richly ornamented churches are today a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Touring the missions is the classic way to explore the region. Jalpan de Serra holds the first and largest, while Landa de Matamoros, Tilaco, Tancoyol and Concá each have their own facades crowded with saints, angels and native plants carved in mortar. Concá also has springs and a waterfall that make a refreshing stop. Nature lovers head for the Sótano del Barro, a giant sinkhole where macaws nest, and the cool, forested heights around Pinal de Amoles. Many travelers continue across the state line to Las Pozas in Xilitla, the surreal garden built by Edward James.
The Sierra Gorda suits road trippers and hikers comfortable with long, winding mountain roads and simple lodging. Driving times are longer than maps suggest, so it pays to plan several bases. Dry months are best, though summer turns the forests intensely green.
WiserMap travel guideSierra Gorda Mexico Franciscan Missions and Cloud ForestsDiscover Sierra Gorda in Querétaro: five Franciscan missions, Sótano del Barro, Concá waterfall, Pinal de Amoles cloud forests and the Biosphere Reserve.Read the guide
The Mission of Santa María de las Aguas in Landa de Matamoros, one of the five UNESCO-listed Franciscan missions of the Sierra Gorda, with a richly carved ochre facade full of saints, angels and mermaids. It sits on a quiet village square. Visit in the afternoon for warm light.
The Mission of San Francisco de Asís in the small village of Tilaco, perhaps the best preserved of the five Sierra Gorda missions, with a bright facade of mermaids, angels and plant motifs and a separate bell tower. The road in is winding. Combine it with the Landa mission.
The smallest of the five Franciscan missions, dedicated to San Miguel Arcángel in Concá, Arroyo Seco, with a red facade carved with the Holy Trinity and a rabbit and plant motifs. It sits in a warm river valley. Nearby are riverside spas and a small hot spring.
A large unfinished 18th-century Dominican mission in Bucareli, Pinal de Amoles, with massive stone walls, an arcaded cloister and a striking mountain setting. It sees few visitors. The road is long and winding through the sierra, so plan it as a half-day trip with care.
One of the deepest open-air sinkholes in the world, about 410 metres deep, in the mountains of Arroyo Seco. Hundreds of military macaws nest on its walls. Visits require a steep hike with a local guide from Santa María de Cocos, and early morning is the best time.
A tall waterfall about 30 metres high in a forested canyon near Pinal de Amoles, reached by a walking trail of about 1 km from a community-run entrance. The flow is strongest in the rainy season from July to October. Wear good shoes, as the path can be muddy and slippery.
A natural rock bridge and cave over the Escanela River near Pinal de Amoles, with turquoise pools, small waterfalls and stalactites. The trail of a few kilometres follows the river and crosses it several times. Bring shoes that can get wet and check river levels after rain.
A cave system in San Joaquín with chambers of stalactites and stalagmites, explored on guided tours along lit paths. It is cool inside year round. Tours are short and suitable for most visitors. Combine it with the nearby archaeological site of Ranas in the same municipality.
A lookout platform high in the mountains near Pinal de Amoles with sweeping views over the folded ridges of the Sierra Gorda, often above a sea of clouds at dawn. Campsites and cabins are nearby. Arrive before sunrise for the cloud views, and bring warm clothes.
A pre-Hispanic site near San Joaquín built on ridges in the forested sierra, with ball courts, terraces and stepped platforms used between about 300 and 1300 CE. It was linked to cinnabar mining. A small museum explains the finds. Wear good shoes, as paths are steep.
An archaeological site on a narrow ridge near Cadereyta and San Joaquín, with ball courts and stone structures stretched along the crest and views over deep canyons. It was a center of cinnabar mining. The walk up is short but steep, and the site has little shade.
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