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Monte Albán crowns a leveled mountaintop above the valleys of Oaxaca, where the Zapotec built their capital beginning around 500 BCE. For more than a thousand years it was one of the great cities of Mesoamerica, controlling the surrounding valleys from its strategic perch. Together with the historic center of Oaxaca City, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The heart of the site is a vast plaza flanked by temples and stepped platforms. Climbing the North Platform and the South Platform gives sweeping views over the plaza and the valleys beyond. The I-shaped ball court is one of the best preserved in the region, and nearby stand the Danzantes, carved stone slabs showing contorted human figures that are among the oldest sculptures at the site. Building J, set at an angle to everything else, has an arrowhead shape that has long prompted theories about astronomical alignment. The Museo del Sitio de Monte Albán displays carved stelae and objects recovered from tombs.
Plan to arrive early, as the hilltop has little shade and afternoon heat can be intense. The site suits history-minded travelers staying in Oaxaca City. Treasures from Tomb 7, a Mixtec burial, are displayed in the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca at Santo Domingo.
WiserMap travel guideMonte Albán Mexico Zapotec Great Plaza and Los DanzantesPlan Monte Albán above Oaxaca City: the Zapotec Great Plaza, Los Danzantes, Building J, South Platform views, the site museum, local food and how to get there.Read the guide
The Great Plaza is the heart of Monte Albán, a huge levelled area on a flattened mountaintop about 400 metres above the Oaxaca valley, lined with temples, palaces and platforms built by the Zapotecs from about 500 BC. Walk its full length first for the overview, then climb the platforms at each end for the best views.
In the northeast corner of the Great Plaza is an I-shaped ball court with sloping side walls, where the Mesoamerican ball game was played. Unlike many other courts, it has no stone rings. It is one of the best preserved structures at the site, and you can see it well from the walkway above without entering the playing field.
The Building of the Danzantes displays carved stone slabs showing contorted human figures, once thought to be dancers but now believed to depict captives or sacrificed enemies. Some are among the oldest carvings at the site. Many originals are now in the site museum, with replicas in place, so visit both to compare.
Building J stands in the middle of the Great Plaza and is unusual for its arrow-shaped plan, angled differently from every other structure on the site. Many archaeologists believe it served as an astronomical observatory. Its walls bear carved slabs recording conquests. Look at it from the South Platform to see its odd shape.
The largest structure at Monte Albán, the North Platform is a vast raised complex at the end of the Great Plaza, reached by a wide staircase. On top are a sunken patio, column bases and temple remains. It gives excellent views back down the plaza. Climb carefully, as the steps are tall and uneven.
Climb the steep steps of the South Platform at the far end of the Great Plaza for the classic panoramic view of the whole site with the valley and mountains behind. Carved stelae stand near its base. It is best in the late afternoon light, before the site closes.
System IV is a temple complex on the west side of the Great Plaza, made up of a pyramid base, a patio and a platform in a layout repeated at System M nearby. It shows how Zapotec builders designed mirrored ceremonial spaces. Stelae with carved figures stand at its corner, and you can climb for views across the plaza.
On the east side of the Great Plaza, the Palace is a residential complex arranged around a central patio with rooms on all sides, thought to have housed nobles or priests. A cruciform tomb was found beneath the patio. Peek into the rooms from the stairway, and compare it with the more ceremonial buildings across the plaza.
Found in 1932 by Alfonso Caso, Tomb 7 held one of the richest treasures ever discovered in the Americas, with gold jewellery, carved bones and jade placed there by the Mixtecs who reused a Zapotec tomb. The treasure is now displayed at the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca. The tomb itself lies near the site entrance.
Tomb 104 is one of the best known painted tombs at Monte Albán, with a decorated facade niche holding a ceramic figure and murals inside showing deities and glyphs. It lies north of the Great Plaza on the path toward the North Platform area. Access inside may be restricted, but the entrance and its niche are visible.
The site museum near the entrance displays original Danzantes slabs, carved stelae, funerary urns, ceramics and other finds from the excavations, with explanations of Zapotec history. It is small and can be seen in 30 minutes. Visit it before walking the site to understand what you are looking at, or after to see the originals.
On a ridge north of Monte Albán, Santa María Atzompa's archaeological zone was a satellite city with ball courts, plazas and residential complexes, opened to the public in 2012. It sees few visitors and has fine views back toward Monte Albán. Combine it with a visit to the village of Atzompa, known for its green glazed pottery.
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