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San Blas is a small fishing town on the Nayarit coast that once played an outsized role in Spanish colonial history. In the late eighteenth century it served as a naval base from which expeditions set out to settle and supply Alta California, and the ruins of that era still crown the hill above town. Today it is a sleepy place of mangroves, estuaries, and long beaches, known to many through Longfellow's poem about its church bells.
On the hilltop, the Fuerte de San Basilio overlooks the coast beside the roofless ruins of the old church, and down by the estuary the restored customs house hints at the port's former importance. The pier is a pleasant spot at sunset. The signature excursion is a boat trip through the mangrove channels to La Tovara spring, with crocodiles, turtles, and herons along the way. South of town, Bahía de Matanchén curves past quiet beaches, and Playa Las Islitas is known among surfers for long rides when the swell is right. The surrounding wetlands make the area one of Mexico's notable birdwatching destinations.
San Blas suits birders, surfers, and travelers content with simple lodging. Biting gnats known as jejenes can be fierce at dawn and dusk, so repellent is essential. The island village of Mexcaltitán and the state capital, Tepic, are within reach.
WiserMap travel guideSan Blas Mexico Mangrove Boat Tours and Hilltop Fort RuinsPlan a trip to San Blas, the historic Pacific port in Nayarit, with a hilltop fort, mangrove boat tours, surf bays, birdwatching, seafood, stays and a plan.Read the guide
Ruins of the 18th-century Spanish fort and counting house on the Cerro de la Contaduría, guarding what was once a major Pacific port. Old cannons look out over the town, river and ocean. Climb up in the late afternoon for the view and bring insect repellent for the sand flies.
Roofless ruins of an 18th-century church on the hill beside the fort, made famous by Longfellow's poem The Bells of San Blas. Tall stone walls and arches remain, framed by tropical plants. It is a peaceful spot with views; combine it with the fort on the same climb.
Restored colonial customs house near the waterfront, a reminder of the days when San Blas was the main Spanish port on the Pacific coast of New Spain. It now hosts cultural events and exhibitions. Look at the thick walls and arches and ask locally if exhibits are open.
Waterfront area along the estuary where fishing boats unload their catch and where historic ships once sailed to the Philippines and California. It is a good place to watch daily life and buy fresh fish. Come in the morning when the boats return, and enjoy seafood nearby.
Boat tours wind through narrow mangrove channels from San Blas to La Tovara, a clear freshwater spring with a swimming area and restaurant. Along the way you see crocodiles, turtles, herons and many other birds. Go early in the morning for the best wildlife and calmer weather.
San Blas is one of the top birding spots in Mexico, with hundreds of species in its mangroves, estuaries and forests. Each winter the town hosts a festival for migratory birds with guided outings and talks. Hire a local birding guide and head out at dawn with binoculars.
Volcanic island far off the Nayarit coast, a national park and seabird sanctuary famous for nesting blue-footed boobies and frigatebirds that let people come close. Boat trips from San Blas take several hours each way. Plan carefully, go with an authorized operator and follow park rules.
Wide, calm bay south of San Blas with long sandy beaches, palapa restaurants and fishing villages like Aticama, known for oysters. It is good for swimming and relaxing. Bring strong insect repellent, as sand flies can bite in the late afternoon.
Beach on the Bahía de Matanchén known among surfers for one of the longest rideable waves in the world when big swells arrive, usually in summer and autumn. On calm days it is a relaxed swimming beach with simple seafood restaurants. Check surf conditions locally.
San Blas's town beach, a long stretch of sand within walking distance of the center, with surf schools, palapa restaurants and wide sunsets. The waves are gentle for beginner surfing. Swim with care near the river mouth, and use insect repellent at dusk.
Tiny round island town in a lagoon north of San Blas, linked by legend to Aztlán, the mythical homeland of the Aztecs. Its streets flood in the rainy season and residents use canoes. Visit the small museum, eat local shrimp dishes and take a boat around the island.
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