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Founded in 1411 by Sultan Ahmed Shah on the banks of the Sabarmati River, Ahmedabad became India's first UNESCO World Heritage City in 2017. Its walled old town is a dense web of pols, gated neighbourhoods of carved wooden houses, set among mosques and Jain and Hindu temples that reflect the city's long blend of faiths.
Textiles built modern Ahmedabad, once called the Manchester of the East for its mills, and the Calico Museum preserves that heritage in spectacular fashion. Mahatma Gandhi lived at Sabarmati Ashram, from where he set out on the Salt March in 1930, and the city later became a laboratory of modern architecture, with buildings by Le Corbusier and Louis Kahn.
Gujarati food is largely vegetarian and slightly sweet: try a thali, fluffy khaman and the late-night stalls of Manek Chowk. Kankaria Lake and the stepwell of Dada Harir make easy outings. The winter months are the most comfortable, and the Navratri festival in autumn fills the city with garba dancing.
Sabarmati Ashram on the banks of the Sabarmati River in Ahmedabad was Mahatma Gandhi's home from 1917 to 1930 and the start of his Salt March to Dandi. See Hriday Kunj, his modest cottage, and a museum by Charles Correa of photos and letters. The shaded grounds are calmest in the morning.
Bhadra Fort was built in 1411 by Sultan Ahmed Shah when he founded Ahmedabad and formed the heart of the royal citadel. Its restored gateway and ramparts face a plaza leading to Teen Darwaza, and the Bhadrakali Temple sits within. Busy textile bazaars fill the streets all around it.
Dada Harir Stepwell in Ahmedabad's Asarwa area was built in 1499 and descends five storeys through stone galleries to a cool octagonal well. Carved pillars and inscriptions in Sanskrit and Arabic decorate each level as daylight filters down. The mosque and tomb of Bai Harir stand close by.
Sarkhej Roza on Ahmedabad's southwestern edge is a fifteenth-century complex of mosque, tombs, palaces and a stepped water tank, built around the tomb of the Sufi saint Shaikh Ahmed Khattu. Rows of slender pillars and stone screens blend Islamic and local styles. Late afternoon light suits it best.
Sidi Saiyyed Mosque near Lal Darwaja in Ahmedabad was built in 1573 and is famed for its carved stone lattice windows, above all the tree of life screen of intertwining branches. The design became an unofficial emblem of the city. Visit in the morning light, view from the garden and dress modestly.
Jama Masjid Ahmedabad was completed in 1424 under Sultan Ahmed Shah, the city's founder, in yellow sandstone around a vast courtyard. Its prayer hall rests on some 260 carved pillars mixing Islamic and Hindu-Jain styles; an 1819 earthquake toppled its minarets. Remove shoes at the gate.
Hutheesing Jain Temple outside Ahmedabad's old Delhi Gate was built in 1848 by a merchant family and is dedicated to Dharmanatha, the fifteenth Jain tirthankara. Its white marble halls, 52 small shrines and tall memorial tower are densely carved. Leave leather items and food outside.
Shree Swaminarayan Mandir Kalupur, consecrated in 1822 in Ahmedabad's walled city, was the first temple of the Swaminarayan Sampraday. Brightly painted carved wood, brackets and balconies frame its courtyard. Come early for the morning prayers, when the city's heritage walk also starts from here.
The Ahmedabad Pols Heritage Walk threads through the pols of the old city, gated neighbourhoods of carved wooden houses, shared courtyards and tall bird feeders called chabutros. The municipal walk leaves the Kalupur Swaminarayan temple early each morning. A good guide reveals hidden stories.
Manek Chowk in Ahmedabad's old city changes through the day, from vegetable sellers at dawn to a jewellery market by day and an open-air food street after dark. Stalls serve pav bhaji, dosas, sandwiches and kulfi until late. Bring cash and come late in the evening for the best atmosphere.
The Calico Museum of Textiles in Ahmedabad's Shahibaug holds one of the world's finest collections of Indian textiles, from court costumes and tapestries to embroidery and tie-dye. It sits in the Sarabhai gardens. Entry is by small guided tour, booked well ahead, and photography is not allowed.
Kankaria Lake in south Ahmedabad is a large many-sided lake built in the fifteenth century under the Gujarat Sultanate. Its shore is now a promenade with a zoo, toy train, gardens and food stalls, busiest during the Kankaria Carnival in late December. Walk the circuit at sunset.
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