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Behind Kerala's Arabian Sea shoreline lies a maze of brackish lagoons, rivers and man-made channels that stretches for long distances inland. Vembanad Lake is the largest body of water in the system, and around it lies Kuttanad, a farming region where rice is grown on reclaimed land below sea level and protected by dikes. Coconut palms line the waterways, and life in the villages still moves largely by boat.
The classic experience is an overnight trip on a kettuvallam, a converted rice barge turned houseboat, which usually departs from the jetties on Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha. Over a day the boat drifts past paddy fields, small churches and temples, and people washing clothes at the water's edge. Champakulam is known for its old church and its snake boat traditions, and Punnamada hosts the famous Nehru Trophy Boat Race. Around Kumarakom, on the eastern shore, visitors walk the bird sanctuary, take a canoe out to Pathiramanal Island or join village walks to see coir making and toddy tapping.
The pace is slow by design, which suits couples and travelers looking to rest between busier stops in South India. Southward, Ashtamudi Lake and Munroe Island offer quieter canal trips by country boat. Marari Beach, near Alappuzha, is a calm place to end a backwater stay. The monsoon is lush but wet.
WiserMap travel guideKerala Backwaters India Houseboat Nights and Rice FieldsPlan a Kerala backwaters trip: Alappuzha houseboats, Kuttanad rice fields, Kumarakom birdlife, Kollam's Ashtamudi Lake, Munroe Island, food and the best season.Read the guide
Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha is the main starting point for Kerala's famous kettuvallam houseboats, which cruise the canals overnight with a crew and cook. It is also the venue for the Nehru Trophy Boat Race. Compare boats before booking, and choose one with a licensed operator and working safety gear.
Kuttanad is a low-lying region of rice paddies farmed below sea level, protected by dikes and crossed by canals. Small canoe or shikara tours pass village homes, churches and duck farms that houseboats cannot reach. Ask for a local canoe trip to see daily life up close, and bring sun protection.
A large palm-fringed lake near Kollam with eight arms, giving it its name, and a gateway to the southern backwaters. Boat trips cruise to coir-making villages and Chinese fishing nets. The public ferry from Kollam to Alappuzha is a long, scenic ride through the waterways. Check the ferry schedule ahead.
A cluster of small islands where the Kallada River meets Ashtamudi Lake, about 25 kilometers from Kollam. Narrow canals are explored by canoe, passing coconut groves, coir making, shrimp farms and village life. Some areas are slowly sinking. Go on an early morning canoe tour for the calmest water and birdlife.
A village in Kuttanad on the Pampa River known for St. Mary's Forane Church, one of the oldest churches in Kerala, and for the Champakulam Moolam boat race, said to be the oldest snake boat race in the state. It is reached by canoe or ferry from Alappuzha. Visit during the race season in June or July if possible.
Kumarakom on the eastern shore of Vembanad Lake offers village tours where visitors can watch toddy tapping, coir making, fishing with nets and traditional cooking. Many resorts arrange these walks and canoe rides with local guides. Choose responsible tourism programs that support residents directly.
A bird sanctuary on the shore of Vembanad Lake, spread over about 14 acres of mangroves and wetlands, home to egrets, herons, kingfishers and migratory birds. A walking trail runs through it, and boat trips go along the edge. Visit early in the morning, when birds are most active, especially from November to February.
A small island in the middle of Vembanad Lake, reached only by boat, with dense trees and a walking path. It is a good spot for birdwatching, with many resident and migratory species. Boats from Kumarakom or Muhamma take visitors across. There are no shops or facilities, so bring water and come in the morning.
Alappuzha, also called Alleppey, is a canal town with an old pier, a lighthouse and a long beach that is popular at sunset. The town has many simple restaurants serving Kerala fish curry and appam. The sea can be rough, so swimming is not always safe. Climb the lighthouse for views over the coast.
A quiet beach about 11 kilometers north of Alappuzha, lined with coconut palms and fishing village life, with a few homestays and resorts. It is much calmer than Kerala's busier beaches, and fishermen launch boats in the morning. Currents can be strong, so swim with care and only where locals say it is safe.
A historic seaside area of Kochi with Chinese fishing nets, St. Francis Church, where Vasco da Gama was first buried, and colonial Portuguese, Dutch and British buildings. Nearby Mattancherry has the Dutch Palace and the Paradesi Synagogue. Walk or rent a bicycle, and watch the fishing nets lifted at sunset.
A famous snake boat race held on Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha, usually on the second Saturday of August. Long chundan vallam boats with more than 100 rowers race to drumming and chanting. Tickets give access to stands along the course. Book seats ahead, and arrive early to get a good view.
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