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Tirunelveli, often called Nellai, is one of the oldest cities of the Tamil south, an important town under the early Pandya kings and later ruled by the Cholas, the Vijayanagara Empire and the Nayaks of Madurai. It grew up on the west bank of the Thamirabarani, Tamil Nadu's only perennial river, which still waters the bright green paddy fields around it.
The old city revolves around the great Nellaiappar Temple, with its twin shrines, carved corridors and musical stone pillars. Just outside its gates, the evening queue at Iruttukadai shows why Tirunelveli halwa is famous across the state. Across the river, Palayamkottai is known for its colleges, mission schools and the Holy Trinity Cathedral, with the Sulochana Mudaliar Bridge linking the two.
The city is also the base for the southern Western Ghats. Papanasam and Agasthiyar Falls lie an hour to the west, the forests of the Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve shelter rare lion-tailed macaques, and the falls of Courtallam fill with water during the monsoon.
The heart of the old city is this vast Shiva temple, really twin shrines to Nellaiappar and his consort Kanthimathi Amman, linked by a long pillared hall. Its towering gopurams, sculpted corridors and famous musical stone pillars reward a slow walk. Visit at dusk, when lamps glow inside.
A short drive east of the city, this Vishnu temple is celebrated for its life-size stone sculptures from the Nayak period, carved on pillars with astonishing detail of faces, jewellery and drapery. Figures of Rati, Manmatha and warrior heroes are the highlights. Allow an hour to study them.
In the village of Thirukkurungudi, near the foothills of the Western Ghats south of the city, this Vishnu temple is one of the 108 Divya Desams sacred to Vaishnavas. Its granite halls are richly carved, and the green hills behind make a lovely setting. Combine it with a drive through farmland.
West of the city among paddy fields near the Thamirabarani, this Vishnu temple at Cheranmahadevi dates from the reign of the Chola king Rajendra I in the 11th century, as inscriptions on its walls record. Finely carved pillars, plinths and reliefs reward a close look, so take your time.
Just above Papanasam, the Thamirabarani tumbles over rocks at these sacred falls in the Western Ghats, linked by legend to the sage Agastya. Pilgrims and families bathe beneath the cascade, and a small shrine stands nearby. The falls are fullest after the monsoon rains, so check before going.
Built in 1958 at the foot of the Western Ghats, this dam holds back the largest reservoir in Tirunelveli district, with forested hills rising behind the water. Above it, the Manimuthar Falls drop into a deep pool. Parts of the area lie within a tiger reserve, so access to the falls may be limited.
Created in 1988 by joining two older sanctuaries, this is one of Tamil Nadu's largest protected areas, covering wet forests of the southern Western Ghats. It shelters tigers, elephants and rare lion-tailed macaques, though sightings are rare. Entry and stays need forest department permits.
In the hills north-west of Tirunelveli, these waterfalls on the Chittar River draw huge crowds during the monsoon months, when cool spray and showers fill the air. Bathing under the Main Falls and the Five Falls is the local ritual. Outside the season the flow can drop to a trickle, so plan ahead.
Rising in the Western Ghats, the Thamirabarani is Tamil Nadu's only perennial river and the lifeline of Tirunelveli, flowing between the old city and Palayamkottai. Bathing ghats, temples and green paddy fields line its banks. The evening light over the water is lovely from the bridges in town.
Built in the 1840s with funds from the local philanthropist Sulochana Mudaliar, this long arched bridge across the Thamirabarani linked Tirunelveli with Palayamkottai and is still in use. A newer span runs beside it. Stand on the riverbank to see the row of arches reflected in the water.
This cathedral of the Church of South India is the mother church of the Tirunelveli Diocese, in Palayamkottai, long a centre of mission schools and colleges. Its white facade, columned porch and slender spire stand out against the sky. Visitors may look inside quietly outside of services.
Tirunelveli is famous across Tamil Nadu for its glossy wheat halwa, and this tiny shop near the Nellaiappar Temple is the most celebrated maker. It opens only in the evening, and its name means the dark shop, after its once dim lighting. Queue early, as the day's batch can sell out fast.
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