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Thiruvananthapuram, also known as Trivandrum, is the capital of the Indian state of Kerala and its most populous city, set on the Arabian Sea near the southern tip of India. It is famous for the Padmanabhaswamy Temple, the Napier Museum and the nearby beaches of Kovalam.
The city became the capital of the Kingdom of Travancore in 1795, and its maharajas left palaces, museums, a zoo and an art gallery that still shape the center. Today it is also a hub for space research, information technology and higher education, with an international airport close to the city.
Begin at the Padmanabhaswamy Temple and Kuthiramalika Palace in the old fort area, then spend a day in the museum grounds with the Napier Museum, the Sree Chitra Art Gallery and the zoo. Save time for the sea, from Shanghumukham at sunset to Kovalam and Poovar. October to March is the most pleasant season.
Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram is a great Vishnu temple where the god lies in yogic sleep on the serpent Ananta. One of the 108 Divya Desams, it is the family shrine of the Travancore royal house. Only Hindus may enter, and a strict traditional dress code applies inside.
Kuthiramalika Palace stands beside the Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram and was built in the 1840s by Maharaja Swathi Thirunal. Its name means mansion of horses, after the 122 horses carved into the wooden brackets under its roof. Part of the palace is a museum of royal objects.
Attukal Bhagavathy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram lies 2 km from the Padmanabhaswamy Temple and is devoted to the goddess Bhadrakali. It is famous for the Attukal Pongala festival, when millions of women cook offerings in the streets, listed by Guinness as the largest gathering of women for worship.
Kanakakkunnu Palace in Thiruvananthapuram stands on a green hill near the Napier Museum and is said to have been built by Maharaja Sree Moolam Thirunal. Once used by the Travancore royals to receive guests, it now hosts cultural events, including a classical dance festival held each winter season.
Napier Museum in Thiruvananthapuram is an art and natural history museum in a striking Indo-Saracenic building designed by Robert Chisholm and opened in 1880. It is named after Lord Napier, then Governor of Madras. Its cool halls need no air conditioning, and the grounds also hold the city zoo.
Sree Chitra Art Gallery in Thiruvananthapuram opened in 1935 on the northern grounds of the Napier Museum and holds about 1,100 paintings. Highlights are 43 original works by Raja Ravi Varma and paintings by Nicholas and Svetoslav Roerich, along with Mughal, Rajput and Tanjore miniatures.
Thiruvananthapuram Zoo opened in 1857 and is one of the oldest zoos in India, spread over 55 acres of woodland, lakes and lawns in the city's museum grounds. It grew out of the menagerie of Maharaja Swathi Thirunal of Travancore. Shady paths make it a pleasant morning walk with the family.
Akkulam Lake lies about 10 km from the center of Thiruvananthapuram, where the backwater meets the sea near Veli. The Akkulam Tourist Village and the boat club on its shore are popular picnic spots, with boat rides and a small park by the water. Go in the late afternoon, when the heat has eased.
Kovalam Beach lies 12.6 km southeast of central Thiruvananthapuram, where three beaches separated by rocky headlands form a crescent. A Travancore regent built a beach resort here in the 1920s, and hippies on their way to Sri Lanka made it famous in the 1970s. The name means coconut grove.
Vizhinjam Lighthouse stands on the rocks at Kovalam Beach, south of Thiruvananthapuram, and has worked since 30 June 1972. The cylindrical tower is 36 meters tall, painted in red and white bands. Climb to the top for sweeping views over the Kovalam beaches, the fishing harbor and the sea.
Shanghumukham Beach is a wide city beach in Thiruvananthapuram, close to the international airport and a favorite place to watch the sunset. Its landmark is Sagarakanyaka, a huge reclining mermaid sculpted by the Kerala artist Kanayi Kunhiraman. Swimming can be risky, so stay on the sand.
Poovar is a coastal village near the southern tip of Thiruvananthapuram district, where the Neyyar River meets the Arabian Sea. Once a trading port for timber, sandalwood, ivory and spices, it is now known for boat rides through the estuary to a strip of golden sand between river and sea.
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