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Columbus is a city of about 50,000 people in south-central Indiana, roughly 45 minutes south of Indianapolis, and one of the most remarkable places in America for modern architecture. Starting in the 1950s, the Cummins Engine Foundation, led by industrialist J. Irwin Miller, paid the design fees for new public buildings, attracting architects such as Eero and Eliel Saarinen, I. M. Pei, Harry Weese and Richard Meier.
The result is a small Midwestern city with more than 60 notable modern buildings, churches, schools and public artworks, and the American Institute of Architects has ranked it among the nation's top cities for architectural innovation. Guided tours from the Columbus Area Visitors Center visit highlights like North Christian Church and the Miller House and Garden.
Downtown along Washington Street has the 1874 courthouse, the Commons, cafes and the restored Zaharakos ice cream parlor, while Mill Race Park lines the river. Brown County State Park and Nashville, Indiana are under an hour west.
Completed in 1942, Eliel Saarinen's First Christian Church was one of the first modern churches in America, with a tall freestanding bell tower, a sunken courtyard and a simple brick sanctuary. It is a National Historic Landmark. Visitors may view it on guided architecture tours or by arrangement.
Eero Saarinen's last major work, finished in 1964, is a low hexagonal church crowned by a slender 192-foot spire. Inside, the sanctuary centers on the communion table under a ring of light. It is a National Historic Landmark; interior visits are usually part of tours from the Visitors Center.
Built in 1957 for J. Irwin Miller, this flat-roofed home by Eero Saarinen has interiors by Alexander Girard and a gridded garden by Dan Kiley, including a famous honey locust allee. It can only be seen on guided tours that leave from the Columbus Area Visitors Center, which sell out early.
The main public library, designed by I. M. Pei and opened in 1969, faces a brick plaza with Henry Moore's bronze sculpture Large Arch. The First Christian Church stands just across the street. Step inside to see the airy reading room, and use the plaza as a photo stop.
Housed in a 19th-century home on Fifth Street with a modern addition, the Visitors Center sells guided architecture tours, has exhibits and a gift shop, and displays Dale Chihuly's Yellow Neon Chandelier in its window. Start any visit here and book tours ahead on weekends and in summer.
Designed by Isaac Hodgson and completed in 1874, the county courthouse is a grand Second Empire building with a tall clock tower anchoring downtown. It contrasts nicely with the modern buildings around it. You can admire the exterior anytime, and the lawn is a good starting point for a walk.
This riverside park by landscape architect Michael Van Valkenburgh has a red covered bridge, a round lake, an observation tower, playgrounds and an amphitheater that hosts free summer concerts. It sits just west of downtown, so you can walk there from Washington Street in a few minutes.
The Commons is a glassy downtown community space with a large indoor playground, cafe seating and Jean Tinguely's kinetic sculpture Chaos I, which whirs and clanks on a schedule. It is free and a great rainy-day stop with kids. It also hosts events and concerts throughout the year.
Kidscommons is a downtown children's museum with interactive exhibits on science, art and Columbus architecture, plus climbing and building areas for younger visitors. It suits children from toddlers to around age ten. Check opening days before visiting, as it closes on some weekdays.
Opened in 1900 on Washington Street, Zaharakos has been restored with marble soda fountains, Tiffany-style lamps and a rare Welte orchestrion that plays music. Order a sundae or a classic grilled sandwich, then look around the adjoining museum of soda fountains and mechanical music instruments.
Exhibit Columbus is a recurring design exhibition that places large outdoor installations by architects and artists around downtown landmarks, alternating with a symposium year. The installations are free to explore on foot. Check the dates before you go, as the exhibition runs only in certain years.
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