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Bahawalpur is a city in southern Punjab, Pakistan, famous as the capital of the former princely state of Bahawalpur and for its palaces, above all the Italian-style Noor Mahal. The Abbasi Nawabs ruled here for more than two centuries, and their wealth shows in Darbar Mahal, Gulzar Mahal, the Central Library and the grand Sadiq Garh Palace at Dera Nawab Sahib.
The city sits on the edge of the Cholistan Desert, and much of its character comes from that frontier. To the south rise desert forts such as Derawar Fort, with the white marble Abbasi Mosque at its foot, while Lal Suhanra National Park to the east protects blackbuck, chinkara and wintering birds. Bahawalpur is also known for embroidered khussa shoes and handicrafts sold in the bazaars of the old walled city.
Spend a day on the palaces, library and museum, then hire a driver for Derawar and the desert. Winter is by far the best time to come.
Noor Mahal is the most famous palace in Bahawalpur, an Italian-style chateau with domes and columns built in the 1870s for the Nawabs of the princely state. Inside, chandeliered halls show period furniture and royal memorabilia. Come back after dark, when the facade is floodlit.
Darbar Mahal is a grand red-and-white palace in Bahawalpur built in the early 20th century as a court for the Nawabs, mixing Mughal arches and domes with ornate facades. It stands in a military-run area and is often closed, so most visitors admire it from outside or join an arranged tour.
Gulzar Mahal is one of the palaces built in Bahawalpur for the ruling Abbasi Nawabs in the early 20th century, its pale facade framed by arched verandas and lawns. Like the other palaces, it lies in a military area, so check access locally before you go and plan to see it with Darbar Mahal.
Sadiq Garh Palace is the vast late 19th-century residence of the Nawabs of Bahawalpur at Dera Nawab Sahib, south of the city near Ahmedpur East. Its domes, towers and long facades recall the princely state's wealth, though the interiors are rarely open. Combine it with a trip towards Cholistan.
The Central Library Bahawalpur is a handsome building from the 1920s, the era of the princely state, and one of the largest public libraries in Pakistan's Punjab. Its reading rooms hold rare books and manuscripts, and the gardens around it make a calm stop in the middle of the city.
Bahawalpur Museum tells the story of the region, with galleries on the former princely state of Bahawalpur, its coins, medals and royal documents, alongside archaeology from the Cholistan Desert and crafts of southern Punjab. It sits close to the Central Library, so both fit into one morning.
Farid Gate is one of the historic gates of the old walled city of Bahawalpur, a tall arched entrance leading into busy bazaars that sell textiles, embroidered khussa shoes and local sweets. It is a good starting point for a walk through the older lanes, especially in the lively early evening.
Sui Vihara is the ruined brick stupa of an ancient Buddhist monastery south-west of Bahawalpur, dating from the Kushan period. A copper-plate inscription from the reign of the Kushan king Kanishka was found here. Little remains above ground, but the site is evocative for history lovers.
Derawar Fort is the huge square fortress deep in the Cholistan Desert south of Bahawalpur, its 40 massive bastions visible for miles across the sand. Held by the Abbasi Nawabs from the 18th century, it hosts the Cholistan Desert Jeep Rally each winter. The drive is long, so allow a full day.
The Abbasi Mosque stands in white marble beside Derawar Fort in the Cholistan Desert south of Bahawalpur. Built in the mid 19th century by the Nawabs, it was modelled on the Moti Masjid in the Red Fort of Delhi, and its domes glow against the sand at sunset. Pair it with your visit to the fort.
Lal Suhanra National Park lies east of Bahawalpur and combines desert dunes, planted forest and the Patisar lake, a magnet for water birds. It is a UNESCO biosphere reserve where blackbuck are bred and shown in enclosures, alongside chinkara gazelles. Visit in winter, when birds are most plentiful.
The Cholistan Desert stretches south of Bahawalpur towards the Indian border, a land of dunes, old mud-brick forts and herding settlements where camels and cattle are raised. Most travellers go with a local driver, and the Cholistan Jeep Rally draws crowds each February. Carry plenty of water.
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Uni tower University Chok Bahawalpur Shop Number F-11, Bahawalpur
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