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Des Moines is the capital and largest city of Iowa, set where the Raccoon River flows into the Des Moines River in the gently rolling farm country of the state's center. It began as Fort Des Moines, a military outpost built in 1843, and grew quickly after the state capital moved here from Iowa City in 1857. Coal mining, railroads and above all insurance and publishing turned it into a prosperous Midwestern city, and today it is one of the country's largest insurance centers.
Des Moines has about 215,000 residents and a lively, welcoming downtown that has grown remarkably in recent years. The gold-domed Iowa State Capitol, with five domes in all, rises over the east bank, while the East Village below it is full of boutiques, restaurants and bars. Every four years the city takes the national stage during the Iowa caucuses, and every August the Iowa State Fair draws more than a million visitors for butter sculptures, livestock shows, fried food on a stick and concerts.
The city has plenty of green space and culture. The Pappajohn Sculpture Park displays works by artists like Keith Haring and Jaume Plensa in the heart of downtown, the Des Moines Art Center is free and known for its architecture by Eliel Saarinen, I. M. Pei and Richard Meier, and the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden sits under a striking geodesic dome by the river. The Saturday Downtown Farmers' Market is one of the best in the country, Blank Park Zoo and the Science Center of Iowa please families, and a vast network of bike trails, including the High Trestle Trail nearby, makes the area a cycling favorite.
A grand capitol completed in 1886, crowned by a 23-karat gold leaf dome and four smaller domes, with a marble interior, a striking five-story law library with spiral staircases and murals of Iowa history. Free guided tours run most days, including dome tours on some dates. Do not miss the law library.
A free downtown sculpture park of about 4.4 acres with more than two dozen works by artists such as Jaume Plensa, Keith Haring and Louise Bourgeois, including Plensa's large letter figure Nomade that visitors can step inside. It is open daily. Use the free audio guide by phone and visit at dusk when some works are lit.
A botanical garden on the Des Moines River with a geodesic conservatory dome full of tropical plants and outdoor gardens of grasses, perennials, roses and water features. It is a short walk from the East Village. Visit the dome on cold days and the outdoor gardens from late spring through early fall.
A 1.2-mile loop along both banks of the Des Moines River downtown, with landscaped paths, pedestrian bridges, an ice skating plaza in winter and the Hub Spot. It connects to wider trail networks. Walk the full loop in the evening when the bridges are lit and stop at the restaurants along the way.
A city park around a lake south of downtown, with a two-mile loop trail including a colorful lighted pedestrian bridge across the water, a swimming beach, kayak and paddleboard rentals and skyline views. It is one of the most popular walking spots in the city. Walk the loop at dusk to see the bridge lights.
A free art museum known for its buildings by Eliel Saarinen, I. M. Pei and Richard Meier, with a strong collection of modern and contemporary art, including works by Edward Hopper, Francis Bacon and Georgia O'Keeffe. It borders Greenwood Park. Allow two hours and walk the rose garden and ponds outside.
A hands-on science museum downtown with interactive exhibits on space, energy, the human body and weather, a planetarium dome and a large screen theater. It is aimed at families with children. Allow two to three hours and check the schedule for planetarium shows and live science demonstrations.
A 42-room mansion built in the 1920s for cosmetics businessman Carl Weeks, modeled on a medieval manor in Salisbury, England, filled with art, rare books and antiques collected from around the world. Guided tours show its interiors and gardens. Check tour times in advance and allow about an hour.
One of the largest and best-known state fairs in the country, held for 11 days each August on the fairgrounds east of downtown, famous for its butter cow sculpture, food on a stick, livestock shows, the Big Slide and grandstand concerts. Buy tickets in advance, go on a weekday morning and wear comfortable shoes.
A walkable district between the Des Moines River and the State Capitol, with boutiques, galleries, restaurants, coffee shops and bars in restored brick buildings. It is a favorite for weekend dining and shopping. Combine a stroll here with the Capitol tour and the riverwalk, and look for seasonal street events.
A large Saturday morning market held downtown from May to October, filling Court Avenue and surrounding streets with hundreds of vendors selling produce, baked goods, meats, prepared foods and crafts, plus live music. It is one of the biggest in the Midwest. Arrive early to beat the crowds and bring cash.
Iowa's only accredited zoo, south of downtown, with animals from Africa, Asia and Australia, including giraffes you can feed, big cats, penguins and kangaroos, plus a carousel and train. It is easy to see in half a day. Visit in the morning when animals are more active, and buy giraffe feeding tickets early.
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