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Sandstone bluffs, orchards and a big state university meet in Carbondale, the liveliest town in far southern Illinois. Southern Illinois University gives the place its energy, its sports and much of its culture, while the rugged Shawnee Hills begin just a few miles south of town.
Carbondale grew up around the Illinois Central Railroad in the 1850s, and the old depot still anchors the downtown strip along the tracks. In 1866 the town's Woodlawn Cemetery hosted one of the earliest organized Memorial Day observances, led by General John A. Logan. Today the SIU campus, with its lake, clock tower and the University Museum inside Faner Hall, is the natural place to start.
The real draw lies just outside town: the sandstone corridors of Giant City State Park, the craft shops of the Makanda Boardwalk, the wineries of the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail and the lakes and marshes of Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge.
A wooded lake on the Southern Illinois University campus circled by a paved and dirt path of a little over two miles. Students jog, fish and read on the banks, and Thompson Point residence halls overlook the water. Come early on a fall morning when mist sits on the lake and the trees turn.
SIU's museum occupies part of Faner Hall, a long concrete Brutalist building that is a landmark in itself. Rotating exhibits draw on collections of fine art, decorative arts, natural history and southern Illinois history. Admission is free; check the university calendar, as hours follow the academic year.
The red-brick clock tower of Pulliam Hall is the image on countless SIU postcards and graduation photos. The building dates from the 1950s and once held the university's lab school and gym. Walk past it on the way between Faner Hall and the Student Center for a quick feel of the historic core of campus.
On April 29, 1866, Civil War veterans and townspeople gathered at this small cemetery for one of the first community-wide Memorial Day observances, with General John A. Logan speaking. A marker tells the story and many Union veterans are buried here. Visit quietly on a weekday; it is still an active cemetery.
A historic movie palace on South Illinois Avenue that a community group is bringing back as a home for live music, theater and film. Its marquee is a downtown landmark next to the strip of bars and cafes serving SIU students. Check the schedule ahead; shows are occasional and often run by local volunteers.
SIU's open-air football stadium opened in 2010 next to the Banterra Center basketball arena on the south side of campus. Fall Saturdays bring tailgates, the Marching Salukis and the team's maroon-clad fans. Tickets are inexpensive and easy to get, and parking lots around the arena fill early on game days.
About 12 miles south of town, this park is famous for the Giant City Streets, narrow corridors between huge sandstone blocks. Trails lead to bluffs, a fire tower and Devil's Standtable, and the 1930s CCC stone lodge serves family-style fried chicken. Arrive early on fall weekends, when parking fills by late morning.
A tiny village near Giant City with a row of wooden storefronts selling handmade jewelry, pottery, metalwork and folk art. Makanda calls itself the home of the Vulture Fest each October, and the old railroad town is a pleasant short stop. Many shops open mainly on weekends, so plan a Saturday visit.
A dozen or so family wineries scattered through the hills between Carbondale, Alto Pass and Cobden, many with patios overlooking orchards and ridges. Tastings feature Chambourcin, Norton and sweet fruit wines. Pick a designated driver or book one of the local tour shuttles that run on busy weekends.
A large refuge just east of Carbondale with Crab Orchard Lake, wetlands and woods. Winter brings flocks of geese and wintering bald eagles, and spring has warblers along the trails. There are boat ramps, campgrounds and a visitor center on Route 148. Bring binoculars and visit at dawn for the most activity.
A 111-foot white cross on one of the highest hills in southern Illinois, near Alto Pass about 20 miles from Carbondale. It is lit at night and visible for miles, and the summit gives a sweeping view over the Shawnee National Forest. The road up is narrow and winding; combine it with a stop at a nearby winery.
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