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Trains still pull up beside the 1893 stone depot at the heart of Kirkwood, a leafy St. Louis County city of about 29,000 that grew up along the Pacific Railroad in the 1850s. Laid out as one of the first planned railroad suburbs west of the Mississippi and named for railroad engineer James P. Kirkwood, it still wears the nickname Queen of the Suburbs.
Downtown Kirkwood keeps a small-town rhythm, with independent shops and restaurants along Kirkwood Road and Argonne Drive and a farmers market that has filled the same lot since the 1970s. Families come for The Magic House, one of the country's best-loved children's museums, while rail fans head to the National Museum of Transportation and its giant locomotives.
Green space runs right up to the Meramec River bluffs at Emmenegger Nature Park, and Powder Valley Conservation Nature Center offers easy forest trails on the city's edge. Every Thanksgiving morning the town turns out for the Turkey Day Game against Webster Groves, one of the oldest high school rivalries in the region.
A Romanesque stone depot from 1893 that still serves Amtrak's Missouri River Runner between St. Louis and Kansas City. Volunteers staff the waiting room, which keeps its wooden benches and railroad memorabilia. Catch a train or just watch the freight traffic roll past from the platform.
An open-air market in the heart of downtown, running since 1976, with Missouri produce, flowers, baked goods and fall pumpkins and mums. In autumn it adds a corn maze and kids' activities. Go on a weekend morning for the best choice, then walk a block to the downtown shops.
A sprawling children's museum that started in a Victorian mansion on Kirkwood Road and now fills several connected wings. Kids can climb a three-story beanstalk, run a pretend city, make their hair stand up on the electrostatic ball and play with water. Reserve timed tickets on busy weekends.
One of the largest collections of American locomotives anywhere, including a Union Pacific Big Boy steam engine, along with streetcars, classic cars and aircraft. A miniature train circles the grounds and the Creative Learning Center keeps young kids busy. Wear comfortable shoes; much of it is outdoors.
A free Missouri Department of Conservation center on 112 wooded acres, with three paved and gravel trails, a large aquarium of native fish and exhibits on local wildlife. The indoor bird-viewing window is a favorite in winter. Trails are hilly, so allow an hour for the longer loop.
A wooded park on the bluffs above the Meramec River, with short trails, a small lake and limestone outcrops. Look for deer, wild turkeys and seasonal wildflowers along the paths. It sits beside Interstate 270 but feels remote once you are under the trees. Paths can be muddy after rain.
The main city park, with a fishing lake, tennis and pickleball courts, a large aquatic center, an outdoor ice rink in winter and the Greentree Festival each September. Shaded paths link the playgrounds and picnic pavilions. Kirkwood residents get priority at the pool, so check day passes in summer.
An 1859 Greek Revival house that is now home to the Kirkwood Historical Society. Rooms are furnished with period pieces and the society shows changing exhibits about the town's railroad beginnings, early families and old businesses. Open on limited afternoons, so check the schedule before you go.
A compact grid of brick storefronts around Kirkwood Road and Argonne Drive, with independent boutiques, toy and book shops, ice cream parlors and family restaurants. Street festivals and holiday walks fill the sidewalks through the year. Park once in a city lot and explore everything on foot.
A modern theater complex that opened in the early 2020s in Kirkwood Park, with a main stage and a smaller studio theater. It hosts touring shows, local theater companies, concerts and dance recitals. Check the calendar for evening performances and combine a show with dinner downtown, a short walk away.
Every Thanksgiving morning since 1907, the Kirkwood Pioneers and Webster Groves Statesmen meet in one of the oldest high school football rivalries west of the Mississippi. The game alternates between the two schools and draws thousands of alumni. Arrive early for parking and the pre-game buzz.
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