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A white cast-iron lighthouse standing in the median of the beach highway sets the tone for Biloxi, a Gulf Coast city that has reinvented itself several times without losing its fishing-town soul. The French settled this shore in 1699, and around 1900 Biloxi called itself the Seafood Capital of the World, with canneries packing oysters and shrimp landed by fleets of white-sailed schooners.
Casinos arrived in the 1990s and Hurricane Katrina devastated the waterfront in 2005, but the rebuilt city of about 50,000 now pairs big resorts such as the Beau Rivage and Hard Rock with genuine history. Jefferson Davis spent his last years at Beauvoir, the Frank Gehry-designed Ohr-O'Keefe Museum celebrates the eccentric potter George Ohr, and the Maritime and Seafood Industry Museum honors the Croatian, Cajun and Vietnamese families who worked the boats.
A long man-made sand beach runs beside Highway 90, while schooner sails and boat trips to Deer Island get you out onto the Mississippi Sound.
One of the first cast-iron lighthouses in the South, lit in 1848 and now standing in the median of Highway 90 beside the beach. It has survived many hurricanes, including Katrina. Guided climbs run on select days; buy tickets at the Biloxi Visitors Center across the road.
The 1850s raised cottage where Jefferson Davis spent his final years and wrote his memoirs, set on beachfront grounds with a presidential library and museum rebuilt after Hurricane Katrina and a Confederate cemetery. Guided tours explain the house and its era. Allow about two hours.
A memorial on the town green near the lighthouse honoring those lost in Hurricane Katrina in 2005, with a display case of objects recovered from the wreckage and a marker showing how high the storm surge rose. It takes only a few minutes to visit but gives real perspective on the rebuilt coast.
A small brick house on the shore of Back Bay dating to the mid-1800s, among the oldest buildings in Biloxi, restored and cared for by a local garden club and surrounded by live oaks and gardens. It is mainly used for weddings and events, so admire it from outside unless it is open.
A Frank Gehry-designed campus of steel-clad pavilions among live oaks, showcasing the twisted, paper-thin pottery of George Ohr, the self-styled Mad Potter of Biloxi. The grounds also hold the Pleasant Reed House, home of a family born into slavery. Check the schedule for clay classes.
A museum at Point Cadet tracing Biloxi's life on the water, with exhibits on oyster and shrimp fishing, canneries, wooden boatbuilding, the immigrant communities who worked the fleet and the hurricanes that reshaped the coast. It also runs schooner sails, so ask about trips at the front desk.
A visitor center built to echo the antebellum Dantzler House lost to Hurricane Katrina, with exhibits on Biloxi's French roots, seafood industry and storms, plus tourist information and gift shop. It sits across from the lighthouse and sells tickets for lighthouse climbs and trolley tours.
Sailing trips on the Glenn L. Swetman and Mike Sekul, replicas of the two-masted oyster schooners that once crowded Biloxi's harbor. Passengers can help raise the sails on cruises across the Mississippi Sound toward Deer Island. Book ahead in summer and bring sun protection.
Biloxi's largest resort, a tall waterfront hotel with a big casino floor, a spa, a range of restaurants and a theater that hosts headline concerts and comedy shows. Even non-gamblers come for the buffet and the views of the Gulf. Check the theater calendar and book popular shows early.
A beachfront casino resort decorated with rock and roll memorabilia, including guitars and stage costumes from famous musicians, plus a live music venue, pool and several restaurants. Its opening was delayed by Hurricane Katrina until 2007. Shows sell out on weekends, so reserve ahead.
A wide, man-made sand beach running for miles along Highway 90, with calm, shallow water sheltered by the barrier islands. Rent a chair, jet ski or paddleboard, walk out on the fishing piers or catch sunset over the Sound. The water is not crystal clear, but it is warm for much of the year.
A long, undeveloped island just off Biloxi's shore, protected as a coastal preserve with sandy beaches, marsh and pine forest that shelter herons, ospreys and other shorebirds. There is no bridge, so go by charter boat, schooner or kayak. Pack water and shade, since there are no facilities.
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