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Muzaffarabad is the capital of Azad Jammu and Kashmir in Pakistan, set in a deep green valley where the Neelum River meets the Jhelum. Surrounded by steep hills, it is the main gateway to the Neelum Valley and is known for the Red Fort, the meeting of the rivers at Domel and the high viewpoint of Pir Chinasi.
The city takes its name from Sultan Muzaffar Khan, who founded it in the 17th century and completed the riverside fort begun by the Chak rulers. In October 2005 a powerful earthquake struck the region and destroyed much of Muzaffarabad, and the city was largely rebuilt in the years that followed.
Most visitors pass through on the way to the Neelum Valley, with stops at Dhani Waterfall, Kutton Waterfall in the Jagran Valley, Keran, Sharda and the meadows of Arang Kel. Closer to town, Kohala Bridge, the riverbanks and the ridge of Pir Chinasi make easy short trips.
Red Fort Muzaffarabad, also called Rutta Qila or Chak Fort, stands on a bend of the Neelum River at the edge of the city. Begun under the Chak rulers of Kashmir and completed by Sultan Muzaffar Khan, the city's founder, it has thick stone walls and terraces. Go early for soft light on the walls.
Kohala Bridge crosses the Jhelum River on the main road between Murree and Muzaffarabad and has long served as the gateway into Azad Kashmir. The river runs fast between steep hills here, and roadside cafes serve tea and snacks. It makes a scenic break on the drive to the city.
Pir Chinasi is a mountain top about 30 kilometres east of Muzaffarabad, rising to roughly 2,900 metres, with the shrine of a Sufi saint near the summit. Meadows and viewpoints look over the city, the river valleys and distant snow peaks. Take warm layers, as it is much colder than the city below.
The Jhelum River curves past Muzaffarabad on its way south towards Kohala, framed by steep green hills and houses. After the Neelum joins it at Domel it becomes a broad, powerful river. Viewpoints on the hillside roads above the city show its loops best in the late afternoon light.
Ratti Gali Lake is a glacial lake at around 3,700 metres in the mountains above the Neelum Valley, reached by jeep from Dowarian and then a hike. Snowfields slide down to its turquoise water and wildflowers cover the meadows in summer. Go in July or August with warm clothes and a local guide.
The Neelum River runs through Muzaffarabad after its long journey down the Neelum Valley, and riverside roads and bridges in the city look down on its fast, silty water. Walk the banks near the Red Fort for the best views. The current is strong, so admire it from the shore rather than wading in.
Dhani Waterfall tumbles down a rocky cliff right beside the Neelum Valley road north of Muzaffarabad, so travellers heading up the valley can stop and feel the spray. Small stalls sell tea and snacks beside the pool. It is one of the most photographed stops on the drive, so expect company.
Kutton Waterfall lies in the green Jagran Valley, a side valley of the Neelum reached by a branch road from the main valley road north of Muzaffarabad. Water thunders over a wide weir below a footbridge, with forests all around. Stay overnight nearby to enjoy the valley without hurrying back.
Keran is a riverside village in the Neelum Valley, a long drive north of Muzaffarabad, where the Neelum River separates it from Indian-administered Kashmir on the opposite bank. Wooden houses and green slopes line the water. Travellers usually stay overnight before heading higher up the valley.
Sharda is a village in the upper Neelum Valley, known for the stone ruins of Sharda Peeth, an ancient centre of learning and a sacred site for Kashmiri Hindus. A suspension bridge crosses the river nearby. It is a full day's drive from Muzaffarabad, so plan at least one night in the valley.
Arang Kel is a meadow village on a high plateau above Kel in the upper Neelum Valley, reached by a cable car over the river and a steep walk uphill. Wooden houses dot wide green pastures ringed by forest and mountains. Go in summer, stay overnight if you can and bring good walking shoes.
Leepa Valley lies east of Muzaffarabad, reached over a high mountain pass, and is known for terraced rice fields and traditional wooden houses. Autumn turns the rice terraces golden. Roads are narrow and the pass can close in winter, so check conditions and hire an experienced local driver.
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