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Amritsar is a city in Punjab in north-west India, famous for the Golden Temple, the holiest shrine of Sikhism, as well as Jallianwala Bagh, the Partition Museum and the flag ceremony at the nearby Wagah Border with Pakistan. It lies about 30 kilometres from the border.
The city was founded in the 16th century by Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh Guru, around the sacred pool that gave Amritsar its name. Maharaja Ranjit Singh covered the temple in gold in the early 19th century, and the city became the spiritual heart of the Sikh faith. Its old walled city still spreads out from the temple in a web of narrow lanes, bazaars and havelis.
Visitors come to share a meal at the Golden Temple's free kitchen, walk Heritage Street and explore the old bazaars. Amritsar is also known for its food, from Amritsari kulcha and fish to thick lassi, and winter mornings are cool and misty.
The Golden Temple in Amritsar, the Harmandir Sahib, is the holiest shrine of Sikhism, its gilded sanctum rising from the sacred Amrit Sarovar pool. It is open to people of all faiths, day and night; cover your head, remove your shoes, and bring no tobacco or alcohol.
The Akal Takht in Amritsar faces the Golden Temple across its marble courtyard and is the highest seat of temporal authority in Sikhism. It was founded by Guru Hargobind in the early 17th century and later rebuilt. Each night the holy book is carried here from the Golden Temple in procession.
Gurdwara Baba Atal Rai is a nine-storey octagonal tower just south of the Golden Temple in Amritsar, built in the late 18th century in memory of a young son of Guru Hargobind. Its walls hold fine old murals of the life of Guru Nanak. It is one of the tallest buildings in the old city.
Heritage Street in Amritsar is the pedestrian avenue leading from the Town Hall to the Golden Temple, rebuilt with sandstone facades, fountains and statues of Punjabi folk dancers. It is lined with shops and food stalls and is busiest in the evening, when crowds head for the temple.
Durgiana Temple is a major Hindu temple in Amritsar, rebuilt in the early 20th century in a style that echoes the Golden Temple, with domes and a causeway across a lake. Dedicated to Durga, Lakshmi and Vishnu, it is also called the Silver Temple for its carved silver doors.
Mata Lal Devi Temple in Amritsar is a Hindu shrine honouring a 20th-century woman saint, famous for its maze of narrow passages, low caves and mirror-covered halls that pilgrims crawl and wade through. Many women come to pray for children. It is a colourful, unusual visit.
Ram Tirath, about 11 kilometres west of Amritsar, is a Hindu pilgrimage site linked by tradition with the sage Valmiki, author of the Ramayana. A large holy tank is ringed by temples, and a big fair is held here every November. It is a peaceful stop away from the busy city.
Tarn Taran Sahib is a historic gurdwara in the town of Tarn Taran, about 25 kilometres south of Amritsar, founded by Guru Arjan Dev in the late 16th century. Its domed shrine stands beside one of the largest holy tanks of any gurdwara. It makes an easy half-day trip from Amritsar.
Jallianwala Bagh is the walled garden near the Golden Temple in Amritsar where British troops fired on a peaceful crowd on 13 April 1919, killing hundreds. Bullet marks remain in the walls, and the Martyrs' Well and a flame-shaped memorial honour the dead. Visit quietly and respectfully.
The Partition Museum in Amritsar's Town Hall tells the story of the 1947 Partition of India, one of the largest mass migrations in history. Letters, objects and recorded memories of survivors fill its galleries. Opened in 2017, it is a moving visit that needs at least two hours.
Gobindgarh Fort is an 18th-century brick fort in Amritsar, strengthened by Maharaja Ranjit Singh and later used by the British army. Restored and opened to visitors in 2017, it now has museums, Punjabi food, folk performances and an evening light and sound show. It is lively at night.
Ram Bagh Garden is a historic garden in Amritsar laid out by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, whose summer palace stands at its centre. The palace houses the Maharaja Ranjit Singh Museum, with paintings, weapons, coins and manuscripts of the Sikh Empire. The shady lawns are popular in the mornings.
Wagah Border, about 30 kilometres west of Amritsar, is the crossing between India and Pakistan where the famous Beating Retreat ceremony is held every evening. Soldiers on both sides march, stamp and lower their flags in a loud display before cheering crowds. Arrive early for a good seat.
Pul Kanjari is a small historic site near the border west of Amritsar, built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh around a bridge, a bathing tank and a baradari pavilion. Faded murals survive on its walls, and a mosque, a temple and a gurdwara stand together. It is often combined with Wagah.
Khalsa College in Amritsar, founded in 1892, is famous for its grand Indo-Saracenic main building with domes, towers and arches, set behind wide lawns on the Grand Trunk Road. It has appeared in many Punjabi and Hindi films. Visitors can view the facade from the gardens.
Hall Bazaar is the busy market just inside the old Hall Gate of Amritsar, leading towards the Golden Temple. Shops sell phulkari embroidery, juttis, shawls, dry fruits, papad and pickles, and street stalls serve kulchas and lassi. It is crowded but fun in the late afternoon.
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