Xico Mexico Texolo Waterfall Mole and Coffee Country

Why visit Xico

Xico packs a lot into a short drive.

The area is much cooler and greener than the hot Veracruz coast. That makes it a pleasant contrast for travellers who have already seen the beaches and want to know the highlands behind them.

Xico also works for travellers without much time. A single long day can combine the waterfall, a mole lunch and a coffee stop, while two or three days let you add Xalapa's museums and the villages around it without rushing.

Xico and its waterfall

Cascada de Texolo

The waterfall lies about three kilometres south of the town of Xico and drops roughly eighteen to twenty-four metres into a wooded gorge. It is the best-known sight in the area and has appeared in films, including Romancing the Stone.

Footbridge and smaller falls

A bridge crosses the gorge and connects the woodland on both sides. On the far side, footpaths lead to two smaller waterfalls that you can see from different points.

Xico town centre

Xico is a compact town, so a walk through the centre takes little time. Look for handicrafts, local coffee and wine in small shops, and stop at a family kitchen for the town's mole.

Coffee country nearby

Coatepec

Coatepec is often called the coffee capital of Mexico and has been a Pueblo Mágico since 2006. Its name comes from Nahuatl words meaning hill of the snakes. Spend a morning in its cafes and plazas, and try local snacks such as tamales, chilaquiles and gorditas.

Naolinco

This traditional village is known for leather goods and for Día de los Muertos celebrations. It makes a good half-day addition if you are driving from Xalapa and want a quieter place with local craft shops.

Xalapa, the highland capital

Museo de Antropología de Xalapa

This is one of the best museums in Mexico for the pre-Hispanic cultures of Veracruz. It is known for its Olmec collections, including giant stone heads from San Lorenzo.

Pinacoteca Diego Rivera

A modern gallery near the city hall that holds the largest collection of Diego Rivera paintings in Mexico, alongside contemporary exhibitions. It is a short stop of about an hour and sits close to other downtown sights.

Parque Juárez

Next to the city hall, this park is a favourite meeting place for locals and visitors alike.

Jardín Botánico Francisco Javier Clavijero

This botanical garden covers thirty-eight hectares, most of it forest preserved from an old coffee plantation. Plan a relaxed half-day among its collections and trails, and bring a light rain jacket.

Callejón Diamante and the cathedral

Xalapa's cathedral dates to 1641 and was overhauled in a neo-gothic style in 1896. At night, Callejón Diamante fills with cafes and artists, which makes it a lively way to end the day.

Food and local flavors

Start with mole de Xico, the town's local mole, which is known for its twenty-five or more ingredients and a sweeter taste than mole poblano because of its fruit. Order it at a family kitchen in town.

In Xalapa, head to the Mercado Adolfo Ruiz Cortines, known as La Rotunda, for picadas, a local specialty with a filling of finely chopped meat, also sold in smaller versions called picaditas.

Where to stay

Xico itself suits travellers who want a calm base close to the waterfall and an early start on the trails.

Coatepec is a good middle choice for coffee lovers. Its Pueblo Mágico centre has cafes, plazas and guesthouses, and it is close to both Xico and Xalapa.

Xalapa offers the widest range of places to sleep and suits museum visitors and anyone relying on buses.

Best time to visit

The Xalapa and Coatepec area has mild temperatures all year. Nearby Coatepec is warmest in May and coolest in January, and fog is common in winter. Rainfall is lowest in spring and peaks in June and in September, which keeps the waterfall full but makes paths wet.

Xico stages a large bullfighting event each July. Coatepec celebrates the Feast of San Jerónimo on September 30. Pack a light rain jacket whatever the month, and plan outdoor walks for the morning when skies are clearer.

Getting there and getting around

The nearest commercial airport is Veracruz International Airport, about two hours from Xalapa. Xalapa lies roughly midway between Puebla and Veracruz on the toll highway MEX 140D. Buses run almost hourly from Mexico City TAPO station to Xalapa, taking about four hours.

From Xalapa, Xico is about 25 kilometres away. Ask at the Xalapa bus station about local services, or use a taxi or rental car for more flexibility.

A suggested itinerary

First day

Reach Xico in the morning and visit Cascada de Texolo while the light is soft. Return to town for lunch with mole de Xico, then browse the handicraft and coffee shops before the evening.

Second day

Drive to Coatepec for coffee and a walk through the plazas, then continue to Xalapa.

Third day

Spend the morning at the Pinacoteca Diego Rivera and the cathedral, then take a half-day trip to Naolinco for leather goods and a quiet lunch.

Practical tips

• Check your government's current travel advisory before you go.
• Wear shoes with good grip for the waterfall paths.
• Carry a light rain jacket, because the highlands are damp and foggy.
• Confirm the weekly closing day of museums before you plan your route.
• Rent a car or arrange a taxi if you want to visit more than one town in a day.