Haikou

About Haikou

Haikou, the capital of Hainan, sits on the island's northern shore facing the Qiongzhou Strait and mainland Guangdong. It is a relaxed, green city of palm-lined boulevards and sea breezes, warmer and less hurried than most Chinese capitals, and the main gateway for travellers heading on to the beaches of Sanya in the south.

For centuries Hainan was where the empire sent officials who had fallen from favour, and Haikou keeps their memory at the Five Officials Temple. Trade with Southeast Asia shaped the old town, where arcaded qilou shophouses built by returning overseas Chinese still line the streets. Just outside the centre, a field of volcanoes and the mangrove forests of Dongzhai Port reveal the island's wilder side.

Meilan International Airport has flights across China, and high-speed trains run from Haikou around the coast to Sanya. Ferries, some carrying whole trains, cross the strait from Guangdong. While here, try Wenchang chicken, Hainan's famous poached chicken, and fresh coconut.