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A green river bent into a near-perfect U, limestone peaks rising between tower blocks and the smell of luosifen drifting from noodle shops: Liuzhou is one of the most distinctive cities in Guangxi. Founded more than 2,000 years ago, it is best remembered in Chinese literature through Liu Zongyuan, the Tang dynasty writer who governed the town and died here in 819.
Today Liuzhou is a major industrial city, known across China for its car, steel and machinery plants, and the Industrial Museum tells that story with locomotives and old factory machines. The older centre keeps a Ming gate tower, the Liuhou Temple and Park, a large Confucian temple and a regional museum covering the Zhuang, Miao, Dong and Yao peoples of the north.
Karst hills give the city its skyline. Yufeng Hill and Ma'an Hill offer short, steep climbs to views over the river, while Longtan Park mixes limestone peaks with clear pools and ethnic village architecture. The Bailian Cave site in the southern suburbs reaches back to the Stone Age.
This memorial temple honours Liu Zongyuan, the Tang dynasty writer who served as governor of Liuzhou and died here in 819. Its halls hold statues and old inscribed steles, including the celebrated Three Excellences Stele. It sits inside Liuhou Park beside his memorial tomb, so see both together.
First built in 1379 under the Ming dynasty and restored in the Qing, this gate tower is one of the last pieces of Liuzhou's old city wall. Its arched passage and tiled pavilion stand on Shuguang East Road, close to the Liu River. Pass by in the evening, when the old tower is lit up against the sky.
This large Confucian temple complex in the city centre follows the classic layout of gateways, ceremonial halls and courtyards, with sweeping roofs and carved stone balustrades. It is a calm retreat from the busy streets around it. Come in the morning, when the courtyards are quiet.
In the southern suburbs, this limestone cave was used by people over tens of thousands of years, and digs have found stone tools, animal fossils and traces of early fire. Two museums on site explain its prehistory and cave science. Bring a light jacket, as the cave stays cool even in summer.
Facing People's Square, this large regional museum covers Liuzhou's long history, from fossils and Han dynasty finds to bronzes, painted fans and the cultures of the Zhuang, Miao, Dong and Yao peoples of northern Guangxi. Its galleries are spacious and clear, so allow a couple of hours.
Opened in 2012 on the east side of the river, this museum tells how Liuzhou grew into one of southern China's great industrial cities, known for cars, steel and machinery. Steam and diesel locomotives stand among the thousands of exhibits. It lies next to Hedong Park and the old Yaobu quarter.
Liuzhou's most famous dish is luosifen, rice noodles in a rich, spicy broth simmered with river snails and topped with sour bamboo shoots, peanuts, tofu skin and greens. Its pungent smell is part of the fun. Small noodle shops serve it all over the city, and locals like it for breakfast.
The green Liu River loops through the city in a great U-shaped bend, with promenades, bridges and parks along its banks. Swimming in the river is a long-standing local habit. In the evening, lights on the bridges and riverside buildings make it a pleasant place for a stroll or a short boat ride.
Laid out in the early 1900s around Luochi Pond and the Liuhou Temple, this central park is one of Liuzhou's oldest green spaces. Willows, lotus ponds, pavilions and a bonsai garden fill its grounds, and entry is free. Early mornings bring locals practising tai chi and singing, which makes it lively.
This small limestone peak rises from Yufeng Park south of the river and is tied to the legend of Liu Sanjie, the beloved folk singer of the Zhuang people. Stone steps wind up to a pavilion at the top with wide views over the city and its karst hills. The climb is short but steep, so take water.
Named for its saddle-shaped summit, this karst hill next to Yufeng Hill gives some of the best views of Liuzhou, with the Liu River curving around the city below. A steep path leads to the top. Go near sunset, when the bridges and towers start to light up across the water and the hills turn blue.
South of the centre, this large scenic park wraps clear pools, a lake and limestone peaks into one landscape. Replica villages of the Zhuang, Yao, Miao and Dong peoples, a wind-and-rain bridge and a tall drum tower show the region's architecture. On cool winter mornings, mist rises from the pools.
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Photo: Zhangzhugang, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
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Photo: Zhangzhugang, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
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