Campobello Island New Brunswick Roosevelt Cottage

Why visit Campobello Island

Campobello Island sits at the mouth of Passamaquoddy Bay, a quiet corner of New Brunswick that feels more connected to Maine than to the rest of Canada. It is about 14 kilometres long and 5 kilometres wide, with about 900 year-round residents at the 2011 count, working fishing wharves and some of the most photogenic lighthouses in the Maritimes.

The island is best known as the summer retreat of Franklin D. Roosevelt, whose family cottage is now part of a joint Canadian and American park. Beyond the history you get forest trails, tidal beaches, whale watching from shore and the rare experience of reaching a Canadian island by crossing a bridge from the United States.

The Roosevelt story

Roosevelt Campobello International Park

The park preserves the summer home and surrounding landscape of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt and their children, on the southern tip of the island. It is owned and run jointly by Canada and the United States, an unusual arrangement created by a treaty in 1964. The grounds cover about 2,800 acres and include gardens, outbuildings and walking trails, so plan a half day.

The Roosevelt Cottage

The Shingle Style cottage was completed in 1897 and given to Franklin and Eleanor as a wedding present in 1908. The house has 34 rooms, and it was here, in August 1921, that Roosevelt fell ill with the paralysing illness that was believed to be polio. A visit shows the house as the family lived in it. Check the season dates before you go, as the house is open only in the warmer months.

Edmund S. Muskie Visitor Centre

Begin at the visitor centre, where exhibits and a video explain the Roosevelt story and the park's international status. There is also a small display on the open border between Canada and the United States. It makes a good orientation stop before you walk to the cottage and gardens.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge

The only road link to the United States crosses the water to Lubec, Maine, the easternmost town in the continental United States. Stop on the Lubec side for photographs of the bridge and the narrow channel. Carry your passport, because you cross an international border.

Lighthouses and coast

Head Harbour Lighthouse

Also called East Quoddy Head Light, this white tower with a red cross was built in 1829 and stands on a small tidal islet at the northern end of the island. You can walk to it only around low tide, via a footpath with a wooden bridge and metal ladders. The tide rises fast, about five feet an hour, so check tide tables and never linger. In summer a preservation group offers paid tours.

Mulholland Point Lighthouse

Near the bridge, the Mulholland Point Lighthouse is a pleasant spot for a picnic with views across the water to Maine. It is an easy stop that needs only a short time. Bring a jacket, as the wind off the bay is often cool.

Herring Cove Provincial Park

Herring Cove has a 1.6-kilometre beach, a campground, a golf course, a seafood restaurant and several trails. The Carriage Road leads through old spruce forest and past a small pond, and a former logging road once used by the Roosevelt family is also open to walkers. Watch for bald eagles, ospreys and beavers, and allow two to three hours.

Fishing villages and Quoddy views

Welshpool

Welshpool is the island's central community, with an Anglican church and a handful of places to eat and sleep. Stop at the Herring Cove Restaurant or the café in the historic Prince Cottage next to the Roosevelt house. Both are seasonal, so confirm the dates.

Wilson's Beach

In 1770 Captain William Owen began building a planned town here and named it New Warrington. It remains a working fishing community, with boats, wharves and views toward the bay. Take a slow drive, and be respectful of working docks.

West Quoddy Head Light in Lubec

Across the bridge, the West Quoddy Head Light is the American counterpart of Head Harbour, standing near the easternmost point of the United States. It makes an easy side trip if you are already in Lubec. Check your border documents before crossing back.

Shore whale watching

Whales can sometimes be seen from the island's shores, so pack binoculars for headlands and lighthouses. Sightings are not guaranteed, but the tide-swept channels draw wildlife. Patience and a calm day improve your chances.

Food and local flavors

Seafood dominates the menu on an island where fishing and aquaculture employ most residents. A lobster roll, with fresh meat served in a soft bun, is the classic order, and a bowl of seafood chowder suits the cool, foggy weather the Bay of Fundy region can bring.

Fried seafood and breakfasts are served at the restaurant in Herring Cove Provincial Park in the warmer months. The café in the historic Prince Cottage offers coffee, light breakfast and lunch with a porch overlooking Passamaquoddy Bay. A waterfront bar in the summer serves meals and has live music some nights. Services are limited and seasonal, so confirm opening dates and bring snacks for the trails.

Where to stay

Welshpool is the most convenient base for visitors, close to the bridge, the Roosevelt park and several small restaurants. Motel units, cottages and chalets with kitchens are the typical lodging, and some have porches and views.

Herring Cove suits campers and hikers. The provincial park has a campground and trails, and the beach and golf course are on site. It is a natural choice for outdoor travellers and families who want a quiet night under the trees.

Wilson's Beach is a fishing community on the island, with a more local feel. Check current lodging listings and book ahead, because the island has few beds and summer weekends fill quickly. If rooms are scarce, base yourself elsewhere on Passamaquoddy Bay and visit for the day.

Best time to visit

Summer is the main season. The Roosevelt park's visitor centre and cottage are open from late May until October, and the best trail weather runs from June to September. Days are cool by the sea, so even July evenings call for a sweater.

Fogfest, a short music, arts and culture festival, is held in early August. October is pleasant for quiet walks, though services scale back after Canadian Thanksgiving. Winter is quiet, and many attractions are closed, so confirm before you travel.

Getting there and getting around

From the United States, Route 189 in Maine leads to Lubec and over the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge. The island's main road, Route 774, carries you to the park and Welshpool. A passport is required to cross.

From mainland Canada, the island has no direct road link. You take a free ferry from L'Etete, reached from Route 1 at St. George and Route 172, to Deer Island, cross the island, then take a seasonal ferry from Deer Island to Campobello, which runs only in the summer months. Check the schedules of both operators before you set out.

Major airports are a long drive away, so most visitors arrive by car, and a car is essential on the island. Note that the island is on Atlantic time, one hour ahead of Maine, so allow for that when planning visits.

A suggested itinerary

First day

Cross the bridge from Lubec and stop at the Muskie Visitor Centre. Tour the Roosevelt Cottage and gardens, then eat at the park café. Finish at Mulholland Point Lighthouse in the evening.

Second day

Check the tide tables and walk out to Head Harbour Lighthouse at low tide. Spend the afternoon on the trails at Herring Cove Provincial Park and watch for wildlife from the beach.

Third day

Drive to Welshpool and Wilson's Beach for a slow village tour, then cross back to Lubec to see West Quoddy Head Light. If you arrived from Canada, take the ferry back toward Deer Island.

Practical tips

• Carry a passport, as you cross an international border by bridge.
• Check tide tables before you walk to Head Harbour Lighthouse and leave plenty of time to return.
• Remember that the island runs on Atlantic time, ahead of Maine.
• Confirm Deer Island ferry schedules, which run seasonally from the mainland.
• Pack layers and a rain jacket, since sea fog and wind are common.
• Bring binoculars for whales, eagles and ospreys.
• Book lodging early in summer, because rooms on the island are limited.