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Shiraz is a city in Fars Province in southern Iran, famous as the city of the poets Hafez and Saadi, for its Persian gardens such as Eram Garden, for the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque and as the gateway to Persepolis. It lies in a green valley in the Zagros Mountains.
Shiraz was the capital of Iran under Karim Khan Zand in the 18th century, and his citadel, mosque and vaulted bazaar still shape the old centre. Qajar mansions and gardens followed, and the shrine of Shah Cheragh made the city a major place of pilgrimage. The Vakil Bath and the Pars Museum, both in the old centre, tell more of the Zand story.
Visitors come for tilework, mirror halls, orange-scented gardens and evening poetry at the Tomb of Hafez. Persepolis, Naqsh-e Rostam and Pasargadae make classic day trips, most central sights are within walking distance of each other, and spring, when the gardens bloom, is the favourite season.
Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz, the famous Pink Mosque, was built in the 1880s under the Qajars and is covered in rose-coloured tiles. Its winter prayer hall has stained-glass windows that throw coloured light across the carpets. Come soon after opening, when the morning sun is low.
Vakil Mosque in Shiraz was built for Karim Khan Zand in the 18th century beside the Vakil Bazaar. Its prayer hall rests on 48 carved stone columns with spiral shafts, and the courtyard is framed by bright floral tilework. It is one of the finest works of the Zand era.
Shah Cheragh in Shiraz is a shrine holding the tomb of Ahmad ibn Musa, a brother of Imam Reza, and is a major pilgrimage site. Its halls and dome are lined with glittering mirror mosaic. Women are lent a chador at the gate, and foreign visitors are usually shown round by a guide.
Jameh Atiq Mosque is the oldest mosque in Shiraz, founded in the late 9th century. In its large courtyard stands the Khodaye Khaneh, a small square shrine-house from the 14th century with stone inscriptions. It is calmer than the city's famous mosques and sits close to Shah Cheragh.
Eram Garden in Shiraz is a classic Persian garden listed by UNESCO, with tall cypresses, flower beds and long pools leading to a tiled Qajar pavilion. It is now a botanical garden run by Shiraz University. Spring brings roses and orange blossom, and it is at its best in April.
The Tomb of Hafez in Shiraz honours the 14th-century poet whose verses are still recited across Iran. His marble tombstone lies under an open pavilion in a garden of orange trees and pools. In the evening locals come to read his poems, and many open his book for a fortune.
The Tomb of Saadi in Shiraz is the garden mausoleum of the 13th-century poet who wrote the Gulistan and the Bustan. A turquoise-tiled dome rises over the tomb, and steps lead down to an old spring pool full of fish. It lies in the quiet north-east of the city, below the hills.
Afif-Abad Garden in Shiraz is a walled Qajar-era garden of the Qavam family, laid out around a two-storey palace with long pools and tall trees. The palace now holds a military museum of old weapons and armour. It is a calm green stop in the western part of the city.
Karim Khan Citadel, the Arg-e Karim Khan, is the brick fortress built in central Shiraz for Karim Khan Zand in the 1760s. Its four round corner towers, one visibly leaning, guard a courtyard of orange trees and pools. Inside are restored rooms with paintings and tilework.
Vakil Bazaar is the main historic bazaar of Shiraz, built under Karim Khan Zand with high brick vaults that keep its lanes cool. Stalls sell carpets, spices, copper and textiles, and side courtyards such as Saray-e Moshir hold craft shops. It is busiest in the late morning.
Quran Gate is the historic gateway on the north-east road into Shiraz, at the start of the Allah-o-Akbar gorge. A Quran was once kept in the room above the arch so that travellers passing beneath were blessed. Today it stands in a small park and is lit up at night.
Narenjestan Qavam in Shiraz is the 19th-century house and garden of the Qavam family, named after its orange trees. Its entrance hall glitters with mirror work and painted ceilings, and a long pool runs through the garden. It is now a museum and is an easy walk from Shah Cheragh.
Persepolis, north-east of Shiraz, was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Persian Empire, begun by Darius I around 518 BC. Its great stone terrace holds the Gate of All Nations and the Apadana with carved processions. It is a UNESCO site, so go early to beat the heat.
Naqsh-e Rostam is an ancient necropolis near Persepolis, a short drive from Shiraz, where four Achaemenid royal tombs are cut high into a cliff face, among them that of Darius I. Below them are Sasanian rock reliefs of kings and battles. It pairs naturally with a Persepolis visit.
Pasargadae, the first Achaemenid capital, lies about 90 kilometres north-east of Shiraz and holds the simple stone Tomb of Cyrus the Great. Remains of palaces and gardens are spread across the open plain around it. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, often combined with Persepolis.
Maharloo Lake is a salt lake a short drive south-east of Shiraz that often turns a striking pink in the dry months, when algae colour the shallow brine. White salt crusts line its shores, and it draws photographers at sunset. Water levels vary greatly from year to year.
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