Progreso is the port and beach town of Mérida, a short drive north on the Gulf of Mexico.
AT A GLANCE
Best time
Visit from December to March for cooler weather, or in summer for the liveliest beach scene.
How long
A day trip works well, and two or three days add the coastal ruins and wetlands.
Getting there
Drive about 30 minutes north from Mérida on Highway 261 or take a frequent bus.
Why visit Progreso
Progreso is a working port and also a beach destination. Cruise ships dock here, container ships unload here and fishermen head out from here, so the town has a lively, practical feel that suits visitors who like seeing local life.
It is also the nearest sea for the people of Mérida, which means the beaches are busy at weekends and in summer.
The best places to visit in town
The Progreso pier
The Muelle de Altura is one of the longest piers in the world, reaching about 6 kilometres into the shallow Gulf of Mexico so that ships can reach deep water.
The malecón
The Boulevard Turístico Malecón runs along the beach and is the social heart of Progreso. Walk it in the late afternoon for the sea breeze and the evening light, and stop at the seafood restaurants and beach bars that line the road.
Progreso beach
The beach in town is wide and easy to reach, with warm shallow water. In July and August it fills with thousands of mostly local visitors who come from Mérida to escape the heat.
Museo del Meteorito
The Meteorite Museum on the malecón is a science museum that explains the asteroid impact that created the Chicxulub crater. Allow an hour, and use it as an introduction before you visit the crater area east of town.
The market and artisan stalls
The municipal market has local jewelers who will make pieces to your design, and an artisan market sets up to the west whenever a cruise ship arrives.
The best places to visit along the coast
Chicxulub Puerto
Just east of Progreso, Chicxulub Puerto is the fishing town that gave its name to the great impact crater.
Uaymitún
Along the road between Progreso and Chicxulub Puerto, Uaymitún has a small flamingo colony.
Xcambó archaeological site
East of Progreso along the coastal road, Xcambó is a Maya site with two plazas and numerous buildings, ten of them large. The Pyramid of the Crosses and the Pyramid of Masks are the highlights.
Dzibilchaltún
About 25 kilometres south of Progreso, Dzibilchaltún is a Maya site with a cenote where you can swim and a small museum. At the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun shines through a window in the Temple of the Seven Dolls.
Dolphins and the lagoon
In winter you can sometimes see dolphins near the entrance to the lagoon, about 3 kilometres north of the town centre. Ask local boat operators about timing before you go.
Arrecife Alacranes
Sailboats run overnight trips to Arrecife Alacranes National Park, a group of tiny coral islands with a lighthouse about 110 kilometres to the north northwest. It is a two-day trip with diving and snorkeling for visitors who want to go farther offshore.
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Food and local flavors
Seafood is the obvious choice in Progreso. Ceviche is a local favorite, raw fish or crab served cold with lime and a little spice.
Beyond the sea, try the classics of Yucatecan cooking. Sopa de lima is a light chicken soup with lime and crisp tortilla strips, poc chuc is pork marinated in citrus and grilled over charcoal, and cochinita pibil is slow-roasted pork in achiote and sour orange.
For budget meals head to the municipal market and the casual places in the center, and for a sit-down seafood dinner try the restaurants on the malecón.
Popular dishes to try in Progreso
Where to stay
The Malecón is the most popular area for visitors. It has beachfront restaurants, sea views and an easy walk to the museum and the sand.
Centro, a few blocks back from the sea, is closer to the market and everyday local life. It suits travelers on a budget and anyone who wants a quieter night away from the beachfront bars.
Chelem is a small coastal town just west of Progreso.
Chicxulub Puerto lies east of Progreso. It is a good choice for visitors who want a fishing village atmosphere and quick access to Uaymitún and Xcambó.
Where to stay in Progreso
Best time to visit
Progreso has a semi-arid climate with warm weather all year. The winter months from December to March are noticeably cooler, which makes them the most comfortable time for walking, ruins and the pier.
Rain falls mostly between June and October, though overall precipitation is low. In July and August thousands of Mérida residents head to the beach, so the town is busiest then.
If you like warm water and a lively beach scene, summer is fun. For a calmer trip with cool mornings, plan for the winter months.
Getting there and getting around
Progreso is about 30 minutes north of Mérida by car on Federal Highway 261, which makes it an easy day trip. Mérida's airport is the nearest major gateway.
By bus, Auto-Progreso runs frequent second-class buses from Mérida every day, with departures roughly every 10 minutes through most of the day. The journey takes about 55 minutes.
In town, you can walk between the malecón, the museum and the market. For Chicxulub Puerto, Uaymitún and Xcambó you will want a car, taxi or organized tour.
A suggested itinerary
First day
Arrive from Mérida in the morning and walk the malecón, then visit the Museo del Meteorito.
Second day
Head east to Uaymitún for flamingos, then continue to Xcambó and Chicxulub Puerto.
Third day
Drive south to Dzibilchaltún for the ruins and a swim in the cenote, then return to Progreso or continue back to Mérida.
Practical tips
- Check your government's current travel advisory before you go.
- Visit on a weekday if you want to avoid the summer beach crowds from Mérida.
- Check the cruise ship schedule if you want a quiet malecón.
- Bring sun protection, a hat and water for the ruins at Xcambó and Dzibilchaltún.
- Eat ceviche before noon, as locals do.
