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Changde spreads along the Yuan River in northern Hunan, just west of Dongting Lake, and has been a regional centre for more than two thousand years under names such as Wuling and Langzhou. The surrounding plain was an early cradle of rice farming, and the walled settlement at Chengtoushan in Li County ranks among the oldest known towns in China.
In 1943 the city was the scene of the Battle of Changde, one of the hardest-fought battles of the war against Japan, and much of it had to be rebuilt. The modern city has reinvented its waterfronts, with the Changde Poetry Wall running along the Yuan River embankment, the regenerated Old West Gate quarter beside the Chuanzi River and parks around Liuye Lake.
Changde is also known across China for its rice noodles and for the Peach Blossom Land in Taoyuan County, inspired by Tao Yuanming's famous fable. High-speed trains and Changde Taohuayuan Airport connect the city with Changsha and beyond. Two days cover the city, with an extra day for trips into the countryside.
Running for about three kilometres along the flood embankment of the Yuan River, the Changde Poetry Wall is carved with more than a thousand poems in many calligraphy styles, from classical verse to modern lines, along with relief murals. It is billed as the longest poetry wall in the world.
Named after Wuling, the old name of Changde, this palace-style landmark with stacked pavilion towers and sweeping eaves rises beside the Poetry Wall park near the Yuan River, and it glows after dark when its rooflines are traced in lights. Walk the embankment toward it at dusk for the best view.
The Old West Gate district has been rebuilt from a run-down neighbourhood into a lively canal-side quarter on the Chuanzi River, with traditional-style lanes, a theatre, cafes, craft shops and a stretch of old city wall. Evenings are the liveliest time, when the lanterns glow and the stalls open.
This central pedestrian street in Wuling District is Changde's main shopping strip, lined with clothing stores, snack stalls and malls. It is an easy place to try a bowl of Changde rice noodles or other local snacks, and it fills with families on weekend evenings, when it is at its busiest.
Liuye Lake, the Willow Leaf Lake, is a broad lake on the northeastern edge of the city, ringed by a resort area with waterside greenways, cycling paths and parks. Locals come to walk, cycle and take boat trips, especially on spring and autumn weekends. Rent a bike and follow the shore.
Rising on the shore of Liuye Lake, the Sima Tower honours the Tang poet Liu Yuxi, who spent about ten years in Changde, then called Langzhou, as a demoted official with the title of sima. A Tang-style district with shops and courtyards surrounds it. Photograph it from across the water.
Binhu Park is a lakeside park in the city centre, with willow-lined shores, pavilions, a long waterside gallery and islands linked by bridges. It is where residents come for morning exercise, dancing and evening strolls. Visit early on a spring morning for the calmest scenes.
On wooded Deshan hill, Gufeng Park brings together the Gufeng Pagoda, the Buddhist Qianming Temple and old wells and pavilions linked to Shan Juan, a legendary hermit from whom Deshan takes its name. Shaded paths climb between them, making it a peaceful half day away from the busy centre.
The city museum traces the Changde region from its prehistoric rice farmers to modern times, with bronzes, ceramics, lacquerware and a reconstructed tomb from local excavations. It makes a good introduction before visiting Chengtoushan or the Peach Blossom Land. Allow about two hours.
This memorial honours the Chinese soldiers who died defending the city in the Battle of Changde in late 1943, above all the 57th Division, whose men fought street by street until only a small number survived. A stone memorial archway and a tall memorial tower mark the site. Visit quietly.
In Taoyuan County southwest of the city, this scenic area is linked with Tao Yuanming's fable of the Peach Blossom Spring, a hidden valley of peace and plenty. Paths lead through peach groves, bamboo, temples and pavilions on wooded hills. Come in March or April, when the blossom is at its peak.
In Li County north of the city, Chengtoushan is a walled settlement founded about 6,000 years ago and counted among the oldest known towns in China. Remains of its round earthen wall, moat and early rice fields have been excavated. It makes a rewarding day trip for history lovers.
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Photo: Danny Luo, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Photo: Uuongkinghe, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Photo: 涔水影人, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Photo: Danny Luo, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Photo: Metal.lunchbox, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Photo: Uuongkinghe, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Photo: Uuongkinghe, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Photo: Uuongkinghe, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Photo: Huangdan2060, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Photo: Sparktour, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
