The Dolomites look like no other mountains in Europe. Pale towers of rock shoot straight out of green meadows, turning pink and orange at sunset in a glow that locals call enrosadira.
AT A GLANCE
Best time
Late June to September for hiking; December to March for skiing.
How long
Five to seven days for two bases; ten days for a fuller tour.
Getting there
Fly to Venice, Verona or Innsbruck, then drive or take trains and buses into the valleys.
Why visit the Dolomites
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, the Dolomites stretch across South Tyrol, Trentino and the Veneto in northeastern Italy. The rock is largely dolomite, a carbonate named after the French mineralogist Déodat de Dolomieu, and much of it began as coral reefs in a tropical sea.
The culture is just as layered. South Tyrol belonged to Austria until after the First World War, so German is the majority language in many valleys and road signs are bilingual.
Tre Cime and the Puster Valley lakes
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The Three Peaks, or Drei Zinnen in German, are the emblem of the Dolomites: Cima Piccola, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, three battlement-like towers in the Sexten Dolomites.
Allow three to four hours for the loop, plus time to linger. Arrive early, because the toll road and car park fill fast in summer and access rules have been tightened in recent seasons; check the official website before you go.
Lago di Braies
Known in German as the Pragser Wildsee, this lake sits at the foot of the Seekofel in the Fanes-Sennes-Prags nature park.
Popularity became a problem: on peak summer days thousands of visitors arrived, and vehicle access in high season has been restricted since 2023. Come by bus, or plan to arrive very early or late in the day, and check current access rules before driving up the valley.
Cortina d'Ampezzo and the Ampezzo Dolomites
Cortina d'Ampezzo
Cortina is the most glamorous town in the range.
Allow half a day for the town itself. Prices and crowds peak in August and over Christmas, so book early for those periods.
Cinque Torri and Lagazuoi
West of Cortina toward Passo Falzarego, the Cinque Torri are five rocky towers on a grassy shoulder, reached by chairlift. The area holds restored First World War trenches and positions, part of an open-air museum.
Allow a full day to combine both. The tunnel route involves steep steps and cables, so take it only in dry conditions and with proper shoes.
From the top of the Lagazuoi, the panorama takes in the Tofane, the Marmolada and the peaks of Alta Badia, and a refuge near the summit serves lunch with that view.
Lago di Sorapis
Hidden in a cirque beneath the Sorapiss group, this lake is famous for its milky turquoise water.
Val Gardena, Seiser Alm and Val di Funes
Seceda
Above Ortisei, the main town of Val Gardena, a gondola and cable car rise to Seceda at about 2,500 meters.
Allow a half day, or a full day if you walk down. The light is best in the morning; check the lift company website for seasonal operating dates.
Seiser Alm
Seiser Alm, or Alpe di Siusi, is the largest high-elevation alpine pasture in Europe, a rolling plateau of meadows dotted with hay barns and huts beneath the Sassolungo (Langkofel) and the Sciliar (Schlern).
Allow a full day.
Val di Funes
East of the Isarco valley, the Villnöss valley, known in Italian as Val di Funes, is quieter and greener than its neighbors.
Allow half a day for the viewpoints and a full day to hike. Respect private farmland around the chapel, and use the designated viewing areas and car parks.
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Lago di Carezza
On the road between Bolzano and Val di Fassa, this small alpine lake, Karersee in German, reflects the spires of the Latemar and the forests around it. A short path circles the water, and the colors are strongest on calm mornings.
Marmolada
The Marmolada, at about 3,343 meters, is the highest mountain in the Dolomites and carries the largest glacier in the range on its northern side. Known as the Queen of the Dolomites, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian front line during the First World War.
Allow half a day. Stay on marked routes, and only venture onto the glacier with a qualified mountain guide.
Passo Giau and the Sella Pass
Driving the high passes is part of the experience.
Food and local flavors
Dolomite cooking blends Tyrolean, Ladin and Italian traditions. Look for canederli, or Knödel, bread dumplings made with speck, cheese or spinach and served in broth or with melted butter.
Mountain huts, called rifugi or Hütten, are a highlight. Many serve hearty polenta with mushrooms or goulash, barley soup and Kaiserschmarrn, a torn, caramelized pancake with fruit compote, alongside apple strudel.
Popular dishes to try in Dolomites
Where to stay
Val Gardena (Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva) suits first-time visitors with its lifts to Seceda and Seiser Alm, good buses and a wide choice of hotels and apartments.
Cortina d'Ampezzo suits travelers who want a lively town, shopping and access to Cinque Torri, Sorapis and the Tre Cime.
Kastelruth and Seis work well for Seiser Alm, while Bolzano and Brixen offer city life, museums and train connections for travelers without a car.
Where to stay in Dolomites
Best time to visit
The hiking season runs from about mid-June to late September, when lifts and huts are open.
Winter, from December to March, belongs to skiers. The Dolomiti Superski network links dozens of resorts, and the Sella Ronda circuit loops around the Sella group by lift and piste.
Getting there and getting around
Venice Marco Polo and Treviso airports serve Cortina and the eastern Dolomites, while Verona and Innsbruck are convenient for South Tyrol and Trentino; Munich is a longer but well-connected option.
A car gives the most freedom, but summer traffic on the passes can be heavy and parking at trailheads fills early.
A suggested itinerary
First day
Arrive in Val Gardena and ride up to Seceda in the morning.
Second day
Take the gondola to Seiser Alm and walk among the meadows toward the Sassolungo, stopping at huts along the way.
Third day
Drive to Val di Funes for the morning view of St. Johann in Ranui, then cross the Sella Pass toward Alta Badia, pausing at viewpoints along the way.
Fourth day
Continue over Passo Falzarego, ride to the Lagazuoi and walk down past the wartime tunnels, then visit the Cinque Torri before settling in Cortina.
Fifth day
Start early for the Tre Cime loop, then finish with a late-afternoon walk around Lago di Braies when the crowds thin.
Practical tips
- Book rifugi and summer hotels months ahead, especially for July and August.
- Check lift and hut opening dates; many close between seasons.
- Start hikes early to avoid afternoon storms and the busiest car parks.
- Carry cash for remote huts, though many now accept cards.
- Pack layers, a rain jacket and sturdy boots; weather changes fast above the tree line.
- Learn a few greetings in German and Italian, and expect Ladin in some valleys.
