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Suwon is the capital of Gyeonggi Province in South Korea, a city of about 1.2 million some 30 kilometres south of Seoul, famous for Hwaseong Fortress, the UNESCO-listed 18th-century wall that still rings its old centre. King Jeongjo built the fortress between 1794 and 1796 to honour his father, Crown Prince Sado, and planned Suwon as a new royal city.
The walk along the wall passes the great Paldalmun and Janganmun gates, the arched Hwahongmun water gate and hilltop command posts, with views over the city. Below it, Hwaseong Haenggung Palace and the Suwon Hwaseong Museum tell Jeongjo's story, and the lanes near Paldalmun are known for fried chicken and Suwon galbi, the city's marinated beef ribs.
Beyond the walls, Suwon is a modern city of parks and stadiums: Gwanggyo Lake Park, Manseok Park, the Ilwol Arboretum and Suwon World Cup Stadium. Spring blossom and autumn colour are the best seasons, and frequent subway trains link the city with Seoul.
Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon was built from 1794 to 1796 by King Jeongjo and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its wall running about 5.7 kilometres over Paldalsan hill and through the city. Walking the full circuit past gates, towers and command posts takes around two to three hours.
Paldalmun Gate, the south gate of Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, is a two-storey wooden gatehouse on a stone base, protected by a curved outer wall. It now stands on a busy roundabout surrounded by traditional markets, and the fried chicken lanes of Suwon are just a short walk away.
Janganmun Gate is the main north gate of Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, a massive double-roofed gatehouse wrapped in a semicircular brick barbican. It marked the royal road from Seoul, and at night the floodlit gate and nearby walls make one of the most atmospheric scenes in the city.
Hwahongmun Gate in Suwon is the northern water gate of Hwaseong Fortress, where the Suwoncheon stream flows under seven stone arches topped by a pavilion. Just above it stands Banghwasuryujeong, an elegant lookout pavilion over a lotus pond that is especially lovely at sunset.
Hwaseong Haenggung Palace in central Suwon was the temporary royal palace where King Jeongjo stayed on visits to his father's tomb. Destroyed in the colonial era and carefully rebuilt, its courtyards and halls recreate court life, and traditional performances are often staged at its gate.
The Suwon Hwaseong Museum, near Haenggung Palace in Suwon, explains how Hwaseong Fortress was planned and built, using models, tools and pages of the detailed royal record of its construction. It also covers King Jeongjo's reign and makes a good first stop before walking the wall.
Suwon Hyanggyo, at the foot of Paldalsan in Suwon, is a Confucian school of the Joseon dynasty, where local students studied the classics and rites honoured Confucius and his disciples. Its tiled lecture hall and shrine sit in quiet courtyards, a peaceful contrast to the busy fortress paths.
Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion, officially Dongbuk Gangnu, is the north-east pavilion of Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, set on the wall above Yongyeon, a small pond ringed by a garden. Now a designated Treasure of South Korea, it is a favourite spot for sunset and night views.
Gwanggyo Lake Park in northern Suwon wraps walking and cycling paths, boardwalks and playgrounds around two reservoirs beside the towers of Gwanggyo new town. It is a favourite place for an evening stroll, when the bridges and fountains are lit and the high-rises glow across the water.
Manseok Park in Suwon surrounds Manseokgeo, a reservoir built under King Jeongjo in 1795 to water farmland around his new city. A loop path circles the water past willows, a pavilion and sports grounds, and the park is a calm, local place to walk away from the busier sights.
Gwanggyosan, a 582-metre mountain on the northern edge of Suwon, is the city's traditional guardian mountain and a favourite weekend hike. Trails start near Gwanggyo Reservoir and climb through woodland to a summit with wide views over Suwon, Yongin and the Bundang area.
Suwon World Cup Stadium, nicknamed the Big Bird for its sweeping wing-like roof, was built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup and hosted matches of the tournament. It is home to Suwon Samsung Bluewings, whose passionate supporters fill the stands with blue on match days.
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