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Seoul has been Korea's capital since the Joseon dynasty chose it in the late fourteenth century, and today it is a dense, fast-moving metropolis. Mountains rise on every side, and the Han River divides older northern districts from newer southern ones.
Gyeongbokgung, the largest royal palace, stages a changing of the guard at its main gate, while nearby Changdeokgung is known for its Secret Garden. Between them, the tiled roofs of Bukchon Hanok Village climb a hillside of traditional homes that are still lived in. Jongmyo Shrine honors the Joseon kings, and the alleys of Ikseon-dong have filled with cafes in restored hanok. At Gwangjang Market, vendors fry mung bean pancakes, and the curving silver shell of Dongdaemun Design Plaza hosts exhibitions. The restored Cheonggyecheon stream leads through downtown toward the shopping streets of Myeongdong. A cable car or a walk reaches N Seoul Tower on Namsan, hikers head for the granite peaks of Bukhansan National Park, and the National Museum of Korea covers the country's history in depth.
Seoul works well for food lovers, shoppers, design fans and anyone curious about Korean culture. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; summer brings monsoon rain, and winter is cold and dry. The subway is efficient, and the DMZ and Suwon's fortress are common day trips.
WiserMap travel guideSeoul South Korea Palaces Bukchon Lanes and Han RiverA practical Seoul guide to palaces, Bukchon, Namsan, Gwangjang Market, DDP, Bukhansan and the Han River, with food, neighborhoods, seasons and transit tips.Read the guide
The largest of Seoul's five Joseon dynasty palaces, first built in 1395, with throne halls, the Gyeonghoeru pavilion on its pond and the National Folk Museum on the grounds. A changing of the guard ceremony takes place at the main gate. Entry is free if you wear hanbok.
A UNESCO-listed palace that blends with the wooded hills behind it. Its rear garden, Huwon, has pavilions, ponds and old trees and can only be seen on a guided tour with limited spaces. Book the Secret Garden tour online in advance, especially in autumn foliage season.
Jongmyo is the UNESCO-listed royal ancestral shrine of the Joseon kings, with a very long main hall. On most days it is seen on a guided tour. Nearby Ikseon-dong is a lane of small hanok houses turned into cafes, bakeries and boutiques, busy with young locals on weekends.
A hillside neighborhood between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung with hundreds of traditional tiled-roof houses, many still homes. Small museums, workshops and teahouses are tucked between them. Visiting hours apply in the core lanes, so keep quiet and come during the day.
Cheonggyecheon is a restored stream running nearly 11 km through downtown, with walking paths below street level and lantern displays in autumn. Myeongdong nearby is a crowded shopping district famous for cosmetics stores and evening street food stalls.
N Seoul Tower stands on Namsan, a forested hill in the middle of the city, and its observation deck gives wide views over Seoul. You can walk up through the park, take a cable car or ride a bus. The terraces are covered in love locks, and the view is best at dusk.
Lotte World Tower is the tallest building in Korea at 555 meters, with the Seoul Sky observatory and its glass floor near the top. At its base are a large mall, an aquarium and the Lotte World theme park beside Seokchon Lake. Buy observatory tickets for a clear day.
One of Seoul's oldest traditional markets, opened in 1905. Its food alley is famous for mung bean pancakes, mayak gimbap, raw beef and noodles, eaten on benches at the stalls. Upstairs and around it are fabric and silk sellers. Come hungry and bring cash for the smaller stalls.
A curving, silver building by Zaha Hadid, opened in 2014, with exhibition halls, design shops and a rooftop park. At night the LED rose garden outside is lit up. It sits in the Dongdaemun fashion district, where wholesale malls stay open late into the night.
A mountain park on Seoul's northern edge with granite peaks, temples and the old Bukhansanseong fortress walls. The climb to Baegundae, the highest peak, takes about two to three hours from the Bukhansanseong trailhead, with steep sections and cables near the top. Weekends are crowded.
Korea's largest museum, set in Yongsan beside a pond and gardens. Its free permanent galleries cover prehistory to the Joseon period, with Silla gold crowns, celadon ceramics and a ten-story stone pagoda indoors. Allow at least half a day, and use the quieter weekday mornings.
The most popular of the riverside parks along the Han River, with lawns, bike rentals, food trucks and convenience stores selling ramen to eat outdoors. In spring the nearby Yunjung-ro road is lined with cherry blossoms. Evening river cruises leave from the pier here.
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