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Sofia is the capital and largest city of Bulgaria, in the west of the country at the foot of Vitosha Mountain, famous for Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the Roman ruins of Serdica, the frescoes of Boyana Church and easy trips to Rila Monastery. It is one of the oldest cities in Europe.
The Thracian Serdi tribe settled here beside warm mineral springs, and the Romans built the city of Serdica on the site. Later Byzantine, Bulgarian and Ottoman rulers left churches, mosques and baths, and Sofia became the capital of modern Bulgaria in 1879.
Today visitors walk between Roman streets, Orthodox domes and Ottoman mosques in a compact centre, then relax on Vitosha Boulevard. Good public transport, low prices and the mountain on the doorstep make Sofia an easy and rewarding city break in any season. Banitsa pastries, shopska salad and local wines are easy to find in its many taverns.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia is the city's great landmark, a neo-Byzantine Orthodox cathedral with gilded domes completed in 1912. It honours the Russian soldiers who died freeing Bulgaria in 1877-78. The vast interior glows with icons and chandeliers, and the crypt holds an icon museum.
The Rotunda of St. George is a small red-brick church from the 4th century, the oldest building in Sofia, hidden in a courtyard among Roman ruins in the city centre. Inside, layers of medieval frescoes cover the dome. It is still an active church, so dress modestly.
The Russian Church in Sofia, properly the Church of St. Nicholas the Miracle-Maker, is a church built in the early 20th century with golden onion domes and green-tiled spires. In the crypt, visitors leave handwritten wishes at the tomb of Archbishop Seraphim. It stands on Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard.
Banya Bashi Mosque is an Ottoman mosque from the 16th century in central Sofia, the only one still in use in the city. Its name recalls the hot mineral baths over which it was built, and public taps of warm mineral water flow nearby. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times.
The Serdica Archaeological Complex in Sofia displays the excavated streets, buildings and early churches of Roman Serdica right beside Serdika metro station. Opened in 2016, the open-air site lets visitors walk along ancient paving among the modern city. It is free and easy to visit.
The Ivan Vazov National Theatre is Bulgaria's national stage, a neoclassical red-and-white building from 1906 facing the City Garden in central Sofia. It was designed by the Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer. The fountain square in front is a popular place to meet.
Vitosha Boulevard is the main pedestrian street of Sofia, running south from St. Nedelya Church with views of Vitosha Mountain at its end. It is lined with shops, cafes and restaurants, and its terraces fill on warm evenings. It is the best place for a stroll and people-watching.
Sofia Synagogue, opened in 1909, is one of the largest Sephardic synagogues in Europe, a Moorish Revival building with striped walls and a central dome in the centre of Sofia. Its prayer hall is lit by a huge brass chandelier, and a small museum tells the story of Bulgaria's Jews.
The National Archaeological Museum in Sofia occupies a 15th-century Ottoman mosque beside the Presidency. Its galleries hold Thracian gold, Roman sculpture, medieval frescoes and finds from across Bulgaria. It is compact but rich, and two hours is enough for a good visit.
The National Historical Museum in Sofia is the country's largest museum, housed in a former government residence in the Boyana district at the foot of Vitosha. Its collection runs from prehistory to modern times and includes famous Thracian gold treasures. It pairs well with Boyana Church.
Sofia History Museum occupies the Central Mineral Baths, a striking building from 1913 in central Sofia with coloured tiles and decorative domes. Its rooms trace the city's story from ancient times. Outside, locals fill bottles with warm mineral water from public taps.
The Museum of Socialist Art in Sofia gathers statues and paintings from Bulgaria's communist period, including Lenin, soldiers and workers, in a sculpture park and gallery. The red star that once topped the Party House stands here too. It is a short metro ride from the centre.
Boyana Church is a small medieval church on the edge of Sofia at the foot of Vitosha, listed by UNESCO for its remarkable frescoes painted in 1259. The lifelike faces are seen as a forerunner of Renaissance art. Visits are in small groups for a few minutes at a time.
Vitosha Mountain rises right above Sofia, its highest peak, Cherni Vrah, reaching 2,290 metres. Its nature park offers forest trails, the boulder river of the Golden Bridges and skiing at Aleko in winter. Buses and a gondola take visitors up from the southern districts.
Rila Monastery, about two hours' drive south of Sofia, is the largest Orthodox monastery in Bulgaria, founded in the 10th century by St. Ivan of Rila. Striped arcades surround a church covered in bright frescoes, set deep in the Rila Mountains. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Borisova Gradina is the oldest and best-known park in Sofia, laid out from the 1880s south-east of the centre. Shady alleys lead past lakes, fountains, monuments and the Vasil Levski National Stadium, and locals come to jog, cycle and picnic. It is lovely in spring and autumn.
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