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Konya is the city of Rumi. The 13th-century poet and mystic spent most of his life here, and his turquoise-domed tomb draws pilgrims and travellers from around the world. Long before that, Konya was ancient Iconium, and from the late 11th century it became the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum, the period that left its finest buildings.
Those Seljuk monuments cluster around Alaeddin Hill in the centre: the hilltop mosque with its sultans' tombs, the tiled dome of the Karatay Madrasa and the extraordinary carved portal of the İnce Minareli Madrasa, both now museums. A short walk east, the Mevlana Museum, the Selimiye Mosque and the shrine of Shams of Tabriz form the spiritual heart of the city. Each December, commemorations of Rumi's death bring whirling dervish ceremonies.
Modern Konya is one of Turkey's largest cities, spread across a high, flat plain. Day trips lead to the stone village of Sille, the rock-cut settlement of Kilistra and the Neolithic town of Çatalhöyük, one of the oldest known urban sites in the world.
Crowning the green mound of Alaeddin Hill, this great mosque was completed in the early 13th century under Sultan Kayqubad I. Its prayer hall is a forest of reused antique columns around a finely carved wooden minbar, and the courtyard holds tombs of Seljuk sultans. The park around it is well loved.
Built in 1251 for the emir Celaleddin Karatay, this theological school is famous for the turquoise and black tiles that swirl across its dome. It now houses the Tile Museum, including Seljuk pieces from the lost Kubadabad Palace. It stands just north of Alaeddin Hill, so pair it with the mosque.
Founded in the 1260s by the vizier Sahib Ata, this madrasa is known for its astonishing stone portal, wrapped in bands of carved calligraphy. Its slender minaret, which gave the building its name, was largely destroyed by lightning in 1901. Inside, a museum displays Seljuk stone and wood carving.
Named for the glazed tiles that once covered its walls, this Seljuk theological school dates from the 1240s and keeps a fine tiled iwan at the back of its courtyard. Today it holds a museum of carved tombstones from the Seljuk and Ottoman eras. It is a quiet stop south of Alaeddin Hill.
The mausoleum of the poet and mystic Jalal al-Din Rumi, who died in Konya in 1273, sits beneath a fluted turquoise dome in the former lodge of the whirling dervishes. Inside are richly covered tombs, musical instruments, manuscripts and dervish cells. Expect pilgrims, and dress respectfully.
Right beside the Mevlana Museum, this domed Ottoman mosque is linked to Sultan Selim II, who began it while serving as governor of Konya in the 16th century. Its tall twin minarets frame photos of the turquoise dome next door. Step inside outside prayer times to admire its calm, airy interior.
Rebuilt in the 1870s after a fire destroyed an older mosque on the site, the Aziziye Mosque mixes Ottoman forms with baroque detail. Its twin minarets end in unusual little covered balconies. It rises over the bazaar streets, so combine a visit with browsing the old market lanes around it.
A short walk from the Mevlana Museum, this small mosque and tomb honours Shams of Tabriz, the wandering dervish whose friendship transformed Rumi's life and poetry. Pilgrims often visit before going on to Rumi's shrine. It is a modest, peaceful place, so keep voices low and dress modestly.
About 8 kilometres north-west of the centre, this old village of stone houses and rock-cut dwellings was home to Greek and Turkish families for centuries. Its restored Church of St Helen, whose origins are traced to Byzantine times, is now a museum. Wander the lanes, then stop at a cafe for tea.
One of the world's best-known Neolithic sites lies about an hour south-east of Konya. Some 9,000 years ago people here lived in tightly packed mud-brick houses entered through the roof. Protective shelters cover the excavations, and a reconstructed house shows life inside. It is a UNESCO site.
South-west of Konya near the village of Gökyurt, this ancient settlement is carved into soft rock, with cave houses, cisterns and a cross-shaped church cut from a single outcrop. The landscape recalls Cappadocia on a smaller scale. Wear good shoes, as paths are uneven, and go early in summer.
Inside a large glass dome in the Selçuklu district, thousands of tropical butterflies flutter among warm, humid gardens of exotic plants. Displays on insects and their life cycles make it a good stop with children. Come on a sunny day, when the butterflies are most active, and move slowly.
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