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Hokkaido is Japan's northernmost main island, a land of volcanoes, caldera lakes, farmland and dense forest with a far cooler climate than the rest of the country. Long the home of the Indigenous Ainu, it was settled extensively by Japanese colonists from the late nineteenth century, which explains its broad grid-planned cities. Sapporo, the regional capital, makes the natural base, and winters bring deep, famously dry snow.
In Sapporo, Odori Park stretches through the center and hosts the snow festival each February, while Moerenuma Park, designed by Isamu Noguchi, and the Sapporo Beer Museum make good half-day outings. The canal-side warehouses of Otaru, a short train ride away, glow in the evening. Summer paints central Hokkaido in color: lavender blooms at Farm Tomita near Furano, and the rolling fields around Biei lead to the startlingly blue Shirogane Blue Pond. Asahiyama Zoo in Asahikawa is a family favorite, and a ropeway climbs Asahidake, the island's highest peak, in Daisetsuzan National Park. Farther out, boardwalks circle the Shiretoko Five Lakes, steam pours from the volcanic valley of Noboribetsu Jigokudani, and Lake Toya fills a caldera beside an active volcano.
Hokkaido rewards travelers who like nature, road trips, skiing and hearty regional food such as seafood, ramen and dairy. July brings the flower season and autumn color arrives early, while winter draws skiers to Niseko. A rental car helps in rural areas.
WiserMap travel guideHokkaido Japan Sapporo Otaru Furano Fields and ShiretokoPlan Hokkaido with this guide to Sapporo, Otaru, Furano, Biei, Hakodate, Shiretoko and the onsen towns, plus food, seasons, transport and a sample route.Read the guide
Odori Park is a long green strip running through the center of Sapporo, with flower beds, fountains and the Sapporo TV Tower at its east end. It hosts the Snow Festival in winter and a beer garden in summer. The Clock Tower and the shopping arcades of Tanukikoji are a short walk away.
Moerenuma Park is a large park designed by sculptor Isamu Noguchi on a former landfill, with a glass pyramid, a man-made hill and a sea fountain. The Sapporo Beer Museum, in a red brick building, tells the story of Japan's oldest beer brand and offers paid tastings.
Farm Tomita near Nakafurano is famous for rows of lavender and other flowers striped across the hills, best from early to late July. Entry is free, and shops sell lavender soft serve and souvenirs. A seasonal stop on the JR Furano Line, Lavender Farm station, operates in summer.
A restored canal in the port town of Otaru, lined with stone warehouses and gas lamps that glow in the evening. Nearby streets have glassware shops, music box stores and fresh sushi. Otaru is about 40 minutes from Sapporo by JR train, an easy day trip, and very pretty in snow.
Biei is a farming town of rolling patchwork hills, and the nearby Blue Pond (Aoiike) is a pond of strikingly blue water with dead larch trunks standing in it. The color is best on calm, sunny days. In winter the pond freezes but is lit up at night. A car or bus tour is the easiest way around.
Five small lakes in Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in eastern Hokkaido. An elevated boardwalk gives free access with views of the Shiretoko mountains, while the ground trails need a guide or a lecture in bear season. Brown bears live here, so follow all ranger rules.
Hell Valley is a steaming volcanic crater above the hot spring town of Noboribetsu, with boardwalks over sulfurous vents and bubbling pools. Many ryokan in town use its water for their baths. Allow time for a soak, and walk on to the Oyunuma pond and its natural footbath stream.
A round caldera lake in Shikotsu-Toya National Park with an island in the middle and the active volcano Mount Usu on its shore. The Usuzan Ropeway climbs for views of the lake and Showa-shinzan. Fireworks are held over the lake nightly from late April to October.
Asahidake is the highest mountain in Hokkaido and part of Daisetsuzan, Japan's largest national park. A ropeway takes you to a plateau with a loop trail past steaming vents and alpine ponds. Autumn colors come as early as September, and snow lingers into summer, so bring warm layers.
A popular zoo in Asahikawa known for enclosures that let visitors watch animals from new angles, such as tunnels through the penguin and seal tanks. In winter the penguins go on a daily walk through the snow. It is closed for a few weeks in spring and autumn, so check the dates.
Held every February, the festival fills Odori Park with huge snow and ice sculptures, some the size of buildings, plus food stalls. Other sites include the ice sculptures of Susukino and a family area at Tsudome. Hotels book out months ahead, so reserve early and dress very warmly.
From the top of Mount Hakodate, reached by ropeway, you look down on the city lights spread across a narrow isthmus between two bays, one of Japan's most famous night views. The morning market and the Motomachi slopes are nearby. Go just before sunset and expect a crowd.
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