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Baoji is a city on the Wei River in western Shaanxi, China, famous for Zhou dynasty bronzes, Famen Temple and Mount Taibai, the highest peak of the Qinling range. This prefecture-level city of more than three million people sits where the loess plains of the Guanzhong basin meet the mountains, about an hour by high-speed train from Xi'an.
The region is one of the oldest heartlands of Chinese civilisation. The Zhou people rose on the Zhouyuan plain before founding their dynasty, the state of Qin had early capitals nearby, and the Yan Emperor of legend is linked with the area. The town once called Chencang took the name Baoji in the Tang dynasty, and in modern times it became a key railway junction.
In the city, visit the Baoji Bronze Ware Museum, the Shigu Pavilion and the Jintai Taoist Temple. Day trips lead to Famen Temple and its Namaste Pagoda, the Zhuge Liang temple at Wuzhangyuan, the Zhougong Temple in Qishan and the forests of Mount Taibai.
Famen Temple in Fufeng County, east of Baoji, is famed for a finger-bone relic of the Buddha venerated by Tang emperors. When half of its Ming brick pagoda collapsed in 1981, rebuilding revealed a sealed Tang crypt full of treasures. A vast modern Buddhist complex now adjoins the old temple.
The Namaste Pagoda at Famen Temple near Baoji rises about 148 metres and takes the shape of two hands pressed together in prayer; it has held the Famen finger relic since it opened in 2009. A long avenue lined with gilded bodhisattva statues leads to it, so wear comfortable shoes.
Zhougong Temple in Qishan County, west of Baoji in the heartland of the early Zhou dynasty, honours the Duke of Zhou, the statesman Confucius admired above all others. Halls step up a wooded hillside among centuries-old trees, including a gnarled pagoda tree. Come on a weekday for quiet courtyards.
Jintai Taoist Temple sits on a loess terrace just north of Baoji railway station and dates from the late Yuan or early Ming. It is famous as a place where Zhang Sanfeng, legendary founder of Wudang martial arts, is said to have practised. Climb to the Jade Emperor Pavilion for city views.
The Baoji Bronze Ware Museum, set into the hill of Zhonghua Shigu Park, displays the ritual bronzes for which the Baoji area is famous. Its star is the He zun, a Western Zhou wine vessel whose inscription contains the oldest known use of the term Zhongguo. Allow at least two hours.
The Famen Temple Museum, within the Famen Temple grounds near Baoji, shows treasures found in the Tang crypt beneath the pagoda, including gold and silver reliquaries, a rare set of imperial tea utensils and prized secret-colour porcelain. It is the reason many visitors make the trip at all.
The Zhouyuan Ruins, on the plain between Qishan and Fufeng east of Baoji, mark the early capital region of the Zhou people before they conquered the Shang. Excavations uncovered palace foundations and hoards of inscribed bronzes. The site museum explains why it is called the cradle of Zhou culture.
The Temple of Marquis Wu at Wuzhangyuan near Baoji stands on the loess terrace above the Wei River where the strategist Zhuge Liang died in 234 on his last northern campaign. Dating back to the Tang dynasty, it holds statues of his Shu generals, colourful pavilions and old stone tablets.
Shigu Pavilion is the towering landmark of Baoji, crowning Zhonghua Shigu Park beside the bronze museum. It recalls the Stone Drums, drum-shaped stones carved with some of China's oldest stone inscriptions, found near Baoji in the Tang dynasty. Climb up for wide views over the Wei River.
Zhonghua Shigu Park is Baoji's showpiece, a landscaped hill beside the Wei River that groups the bronze museum, the Shigu Pavilion and broad plazas on terraces. A long relief wall tells the story of the Qin state, and lookouts give sweeping views over the river and the city. Go in late afternoon.
Mount Taibai, south-east of Baoji, rises to about 3,767 metres as the highest peak of the Qinling range and was praised by the poet Li Bai. The national forest park leads into valleys of waterfalls and mixed forest, while the upper slopes keep traces of Ice Age glaciers. Bring warm layers.
Hongheguo Forest Park lies on the northern slopes of the Qinling near Mount Taibai, south-east of Baoji, following a clear stream through a gorge of mossy boulders, cascades and tall pines. Trails and boardwalks lead to pools such as Panlong Bay, and clouds often fill the valleys. Bring a jacket.
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