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For more than a century and a half Kaifeng was the capital of the Northern Song dynasty, and around the 11th century it was one of the largest and richest cities in the world, the bustling Bianjing captured in the famous scroll Along the River During the Qingming Festival. Repeated floods from the Yellow River later buried much of the Song city beneath the streets you walk today.
What survives is still remarkable: an almost complete circuit of Qing dynasty walls, the glazed Iron Pagoda, the ancient Po Pagoda, Daxiangguo Temple and the Dragon Pavilion rising above its twin lakes. Kaifeng is also remembered for its historic Jewish community and loved for its food, from soup dumplings to the snacks sold at its night markets.
The city lies in Henan Province near the south bank of the Yellow River, a short intercity train ride east of Zhengzhou. Two days cover the main sights comfortably, and autumn brings the city's chrysanthemum festival, when parks and temples overflow with blooms.
Built in 1049, this 13-storey octagonal pagoda is not iron at all but brick faced with glazed tiles whose rusty brown colour gave it its name. Relief tiles show Buddhas, flying celestials and musicians. It stands in a shady park in the northeast of the old city; morning light shows the tiles best.
Begun in the late 10th century, the Po Pagoda is the oldest surviving building in Kaifeng. It once rose much higher, but its upper storeys were lost centuries ago, leaving three stout tiers capped by a small spire. Thousands of bricks moulded with seated Buddhas cover its walls inside and out.
Founded in the 6th century and later the leading imperial temple of the Northern Song capital, Daxiangguo Temple is one of China's best-known Buddhist sites. Its octagonal hall shelters a thousand-armed Guanyin carved from a single ginkgo tree. Arrive early to enjoy the halls before tour groups.
This Taoist temple honours Wang Chongyang, founder of the Quanzhen school, who died in Kaifeng. Its treasure is the Jade Emperor Pavilion, a Yuan dynasty building whose upper part recalls a Mongol yurt resting on a Chinese brick base. It is compact, so a visit fits easily between bigger sights.
Raised on a high brick platform where the Northern Song imperial palace once stood, the Dragon Pavilion is a Qing dynasty hall reached by a steep stairway with a carved dragon ramp at its centre. From the top you look over two lakes and the old city. Autumn brings chrysanthemum displays.
Rebuilt in Song style in the 1980s, this broad street runs south from the Dragon Pavilion along the line of the old imperial avenue, lined with shops, teahouses and restaurants under carved eaves and red lanterns. Browse calligraphy and local crafts as you stroll toward the pavilion gate.
This reconstructed government compound recreates the Northern Song prefecture office where the upright official Bao Zheng served. Courtyards, halls and a courtroom are set beside Baogong Lake, and costumed performances of court scenes and ceremonies are staged for visitors. Allow about two hours.
This large theme park brings to life Zhang Zeduan's famous scroll Along the River During the Qingming Festival, with Song-style streets, bridges, boats and markets around a lake. Costumed performers stage acrobatics, horse shows and street theatre through the day. Stay on for the big evening show.
Kaifeng's city wall runs for roughly 14 km and is one of the most complete old circuits in China, rebuilt in the Qing dynasty on earlier foundations after Yellow River floods. Stretches near the restored Daliang Gate can be walked. Climb up late in the day for views over rooftops and lakes.
Built in the Qing dynasty by merchants from Shanxi, Shaanxi and Gansu, this guild hall is a showcase of carving, its wood, brick and stone crowded with figures, animals, flowers and scenes from legend. The ornate memorial archway and opera stage are highlights. Bring a zoom lens for the fine detail.
On the shore of Baogong Lake, this memorial temple honours Bao Zheng, the incorruptible Northern Song official who became a hero of Chinese opera and television. Its halls hold a statue of the judge and exhibits on his life and legendary cases. Pair it with a walk around the lake afterwards.
Around the rebuilt Drum Tower in the city centre, the Gulou night market fills the streets after dark with stalls selling soup dumplings, braised meats, peanut cakes, almond tea and other Kaifeng snacks. Go hungry, share small portions with friends, and follow the longest queues to the best stalls.
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