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Few capitals look as futuristic as Astana, which rose from the steppe of northern Kazakhstan after the government moved here from Almaty in 1997. Star architects were given free rein: Norman Foster designed a glass pyramid and a giant transparent tent, golden towers line a ceremonial boulevard, and the gleaming Bayterek tower stands at the centre of it all.
The city has worn several names, from Akmolinsk and Tselinograd to Akmola, and was briefly called Nur-Sultan before returning to Astana in 2022. Its newer left bank, along the Ishim River, is a showcase of grand mosques, concert halls and museums, while the older right bank keeps a more everyday feel. Winters are long and bitterly cold, summers short and warm.
Spend time at the National Museum for Kazakh history and gold work, the Astana Opera for an evening show, and the Expo 2017 sphere for its energy exhibits. In summer, the river embankments fill with walkers and cyclists until late.
The emblem of Astana, this white tower crowned by a golden glass sphere rises about 97 metres over Nurzhol Boulevard, a nod to 1997, when the capital moved here. A lift climbs to a viewing deck inside the sphere, looking down the boulevard. Come around sunset as the city lights switch on.
Designed by Norman Foster and opened in 2010, this huge tilted tent of transparent fabric shelters a shopping and leisure centre that stays warm through the Kazakh winter. Inside are shops, restaurants and an indoor beach with sand and pools. At night the tent glows in changing colours.
This Norman Foster pyramid opened in 2006 to host the Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions. Guided tours pass an opera hall and exhibition spaces on the way to the apex, where stained glass with flying doves fills the room with blue light. It crowns a landscaped hill.
Built as the centrepiece of Expo 2017, this giant glass sphere now houses the Museum of Future Energy. Floor by floor, interactive displays explore solar, wind, water and space themes, and the top level opens onto a panoramic view. It stands at the heart of the former Expo grounds.
The country's largest museum opened in 2014 on Independence Square, and a golden eagle soars above its vast atrium. Galleries trace Kazakh history from early nomads to independence, and the Golden Hall displays ancient Saka gold work. Allow two to three hours and take an audio guide.
Opened in 2013, this grand neoclassical theatre has a colonnaded facade, a sweeping marble foyer and a richly gilded auditorium. It stages opera, ballet and concerts, often with strong national and international casts. Guided tours run at set times, but a performance shows the hall at its best.
Designed by Italian architect Manfredi Nicoletti, this concert hall has a facade of curved blue-green glass fins said to recall flower petals. The main auditorium hosts symphony concerts, folk ensembles and touring shows. Look for an evening of Kazakh music played on the dombra.
This open-air museum on the left bank is laid out like a map of Kazakhstan, with small-scale models of the country's landmarks, cities and natural features set among paths and lawns. You can stroll from the Caspian Sea to the Altai Mountains in under an hour; children love the miniatures.
Opened in 2012, this white mosque with a large central dome and four minarets is one of the largest in Central Asia. Inside, marble, chandeliers and blue and gold decoration shine in a classical style. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times; dress modestly, and women should cover their hair.
Completed in 2005, this mosque is easy to spot thanks to its gleaming golden dome and tall white minarets rising among glass office towers. The calm interior, with carpets, chandeliers and patterned ceilings, offers a quiet pause from the city. Respectful visitors are welcome outside prayer times.
The tall white column of the Kazakh Eli monument rises over Independence Square, crowned by a golden samruk, a mythical bird of Kazakh legend. The open square is framed by the National Museum, the Palace of Independence and the Hazrat Sultan Mosque, so it makes an ideal start for exploring on foot.
This long pedestrian boulevard forms the backbone of the left bank, running from the Khan Shatyr past fountains, flower beds and the Bayterek Tower toward the presidential palace. Golden-glass towers line its sides. Walking its full length is the best way to grasp the scale of the planned capital.
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