Choose wisely. Connect locally.Add your business Xalapa is the cool, green capital of Veracruz, a university town set in the highlands above the humid coast. Known as the "Athens of Veracruz", it pairs colonial architecture with a vibrant arts scene, one of Mexico's finest archaeology museums and a serious coffee culture.
Xalapa is the capital of Veracruz, with about 443,000 people in the city at the 2020 census. Its nickname, the "City of Flowers", was given by Alexander von Humboldt in 1804, and its name comes from Nahuatl words meaning "spring in the sand".
The Universidad Veracruzana gives the city a student energy, with theatres, street art, music and dance in the center after dark. The jalapeño pepper takes its name from the city.
History runs deep here. Hernán Cortés passed through in 1519, a Franciscan convent was completed in 1555 and the first hot air balloon in the Americas rose here in 1784.
The cathedral was first built in 1641 and reworked in 1896 in a neo-Gothic style, with twin spires, an arched nave and stained glass windows. Saint Rafael Guízar y Valencia is interred here.
Xalapa Cathedral dates from 1641 and was reworked in 1896. Photo: Koffer, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
This hillside park beside the town hall is the city's meeting place. From the terrace of the Ágora museum you can see the city, Pico de Orizaba and Cofre de Perote on a clear day.
Parque Juárez has views toward Pico de Orizaba and Cofre de Perote. Photo: Haakon S. Krohn, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
The Xalapa Museum of Anthropology is the one stop you should not miss. It holds colossal Olmec heads from San Lorenzo, along with Totonac and Huastec pieces from the Gulf Coast, in a spacious building opened in 1986.
The Museo de Antropología de Xalapa holds colossal Olmec heads. Photo: Pequeño mar, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
This downtown art museum has one of the largest collections of Diego Rivera's work in Mexico, plus changing exhibits by modern and contemporary artists. It opened in 1998 in a former archive building.
The Pinacoteca Diego Rivera holds a large collection of the painter's work. Photo: Pequeño mar, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
This 19th century neighborhood has most of its original buildings intact, and workshops in Veracruz-style painting, dance and music are held here.
This botanical garden covers about 38 hectares, of which 30 are forest preserved from an old coffee plantation. It displays roughly 6,000 specimens from some 700 species of plants.
The Clavijero botanical garden preserves forest on an old coffee plantation. Photo: WendyAvilesR, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Hacienda El Lencero, about 14 kilometres southeast of the center, was founded by a soldier who served under Hernán Cortés.
Hacienda El Lencero was once the home of Antonio López de Santa Anna. Photo: Mag2017, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
The extinct volcano the Totonacs first settled around is now a preserved park within the city. It is a handy green escape for a walk or a view across the rooftops, and a good choice when you need a break from museums.
Xico is a Pueblo Mágico about 25 kilometres from Xalapa, known for coffee, tropical fruit, wine and its own mole. The Cascada de Texolo lies about three kilometres outside the town. Allow a half day, and go in the morning when the light is soft.
Cascada de Texolo lies about three kilometres outside Xico. Photo: Anxo Soto, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
This traditional village is famous for its leather goods and for its Day of the Dead celebrations. It is a good stop for shoes, belts and bags.
Naolinco is a village known for leather goods and Day of the Dead. Photo: Juan Carlos Fonseca Mata, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Xalapa is the home of the jalapeño, and stuffed chilies are a typical local dish, so try chiles rellenos here. The most famous market dishes are picadas, thick tortillas with raised edges topped with finely chopped meat, and smaller versions are called picaditas.
In Xico, try mole de Xico, a sweeter mole made with fruit and more than 25 ingredients. Xalapa also claims to be the coffee capital of Veracruz, and cafes cluster downtown within a few blocks of the cathedral.
Popular dishes to try in Xalapa
Zona Centro is the best base for first-time visitors, with the cathedral, Parque Juárez, cafes and museums within walking distance. It suits travelers who like to walk and eat out.
Xico is a quieter choice for people who want a mountain village atmosphere, coffee, waterfalls and a slower pace, and it works well for a night or two with a car. Naolinco is smaller and traditional, a good fit for those who want to spend time in a village, shop for leather goods and see local life.
Where to stay in Xalapa
Xalapa has a pleasant highland climate that is cooler than the coast, and Ulysses S. Grant, who passed through in 1847, praised its weather.
The cultural calendar is busy during the school year, when the university fills theatres and cafes. Day of the Dead brings special events in nearby Naolinco, and Xico holds a large bullfighting event every July.
The closest airport with commercial service is Veracruz's airport, about two hours away. Lencero Airport is small and used for helicopters and private aircraft.
Buses run almost hourly from Mexico City's TAPO station in about four hours, and the Central de Autobuses Xalapa lies on the east side of the city, with ADO as the largest operator. Xalapa is hilly and densely built, so walking is practical in the center, while taxis and rented scooters help reach the back neighborhoods.
Visit the cathedral, Parque Juárez and the Pinacoteca Diego Rivera, then have coffee at a downtown cafe.
Spend the morning at the Museo de Antropología, then eat picadas at La Rotunda. Visit the botanical garden or Patio Muñoz in the afternoon.
Take a day trip to Xico for the waterfall and mole, or to Naolinco for leather goods.
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