Catemaco is a lakeside city in the Sierra de los Tuxtlas, in southern Veracruz, where green hills drop to a large freshwater lake. Boat trips go out to islands with free ranging monkeys, a tall waterfall sits a short drive away, and rainforest reserves and Gulf beaches fill the rest of the map.
AT A GLANCE
Best time
Visit in early March for the brujo gathering, or choose any dry spell for boats, waterfalls and beaches.
How long
Two to three days cover the lake, the waterfall and one nature excursion.
Getting there
Take Highway 180 or an ADO bus from Veracruz, about three to four hours.
Why visit Catemaco
Lake Catemaco was formed thousands of years ago when lava from the San Martín Tuxtla volcano blocked its northern end. The lake is shallow, sits about 340 meters above sea level and is one of the most productive fisheries in Mexico.
The city stretches about two and a half kilometers along the shore. It is also known for a lively mix of Catholic devotion and older beliefs, and visitors come for ritual cleansings and healing as well as for the scenery.
The lakefront and main plaza
The Malecón and Statue of the Fisherman
A boardwalk and breakwater about 1.5 kilometers long follows the lakefront and is the town's social center. Vendors sell charms, snacks and the local freshwater snail called tegogolo, and the docks sit in the middle of the strip.
Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
The main plaza is dominated by the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, patroness of the municipality. Work began in 1799 and was not finished until 1961, which explains the blend of Baroque and Neoclassical styles.
Zócalo and huapango
The plaza is also where locals gather, and the clock tower stands nearby. On weekends you may catch huapango, a traditional dance performed on a wooden platform while a guitarist plays and someone sings.
Brujos and the March gathering
Catemaco's community of brujos and brujas has roots reaching back to pre-Hispanic times. Visitors usually seek limpias, or ritual cleansings, healing or luck in business. The main event is the national gathering that opens on the first Friday of March with a public procession.
Out on the lake
Boat tours and the monkey islands
Lancha tours leave from the waterfront and cross the lake to volcanic islands where monkeys roam free, part of a University of Veracruz research project.
El Tegal and Agaltepec Island
A shrine on the island of El Tegal, where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared, rivals the basilica in devotion. Each year the celebration of Our Lady of Mount Carmel includes a procession of boats to Agaltepec Island with traditional music.
Waterfalls, jungle and coast
Salto de Eyipantla
The Salto de Eyipantla is a 45 meter waterfall on the Río Grande de Catemaco, about 11 kilometers downstream from the lake and west of town.
Nanciyaga Ecological Reserve
This jungle reserve offers a walk over a hanging bridge that crosses a fresh water spring, kayaking, and natural mud masks. The restaurant serves typical food of the Tuxtlas region.
Ecobiosfera and rainforest tours
On the road from Catemaco to Sontecomapan, Ecobiosfera runs tours in the rainforest that range from jeep rides to birdwatching and half day walks.
Sontecomapan lagoon
About 20 kilometers northeast of Catemaco, the village of Sontecomapan sits beside a lagoon. From there a lancha runs out to the coast at la barra, which makes an easy half day on the water.
Montepío
Montepío lies directly on a beach of the Gulf of Mexico and can be reached by rural taxi from Catemaco.
Food and local flavors
The lake sets the menu. Memelas are the dish most closely tied to Catemaco: very large tortillas made like a quesadilla and filled with ham and beans or whatever the cook offers.
Lakefront restaurants line the Malecón, and many close early in the evening, so plan dinner accordingly. La Ola has served lakeside meals since 1965, and La Casita is popular with residents. The Nanciyaga restaurant serves regional dishes of the Tuxtla area.
Popular dishes to try in Catemaco
Where to stay
Most hotels cluster around the Zócalo, within walking distance of both bus stations, so this is the easiest base for travelers arriving without a car. The Zócalo suits budget visitors and anyone who wants cafes, the basilica and weekend dances close at hand.
The Malecón puts you on the water, with lake views and short walks to the boat docks, and suits couples and anyone planning early boat trips.
Where to stay in Catemaco
Best time to visit
Catemaco lies in a rainforest region, so expect warm, humid weather and showers at any time of year. Start boat trips and waterfall visits early in the day, and check a forecast before booking jungle tours.
The biggest event is the national gathering of brujos, which opens on the first Friday of March with a public procession and celebration. Hotels fill up, so book early.
Getting there and getting around
Catemaco sits on Highway 180, the Gulf Coast road, about three to three and a half hours south of the city of Veracruz by car. ADO runs four buses a day in each direction, and the trip from Veracruz takes about three hours and 45 minutes.
The town has two bus stations: an ADO terminal for first-class buses near the east end of the Malecón, and a second-class station. Taxis are plentiful, local buses run by day, and rural taxis called mixtos, which are pickup trucks, can be flagged down for villages such as Sontecomapan.
A suggested itinerary
First day
Walk the Malecón in the morning, visit the basilica and then take a lancha tour to the monkey islands.
Second day
Visit the Salto de Eyipantla in the morning, then spend the afternoon at Nanciyaga or a rainforest tour with Ecobiosfera.
Third day
Take a rural taxi to Sontecomapan for a boat trip to the coast, or continue to Montepío for a beach day.
Practical tips
- Check your government's current travel advisory before you go.
- Agree on the route and duration with your boatman before you board.
- Be careful with anyone offering cleansings on the street, since some operators are not genuine.
- Bring cash for villages and beaches that lack ATMs, such as Montepío.
- Carry insect repellent and a rain layer for jungle outings.
